A Cement question
 

Thinking of putting cement drive way in our new home in North Carolina. up here in ct there all amosite.
Any ruff idea what a 2o ft wife by 35ft long might cost.
joeg

holy crap batman....you have a 20 foot wife? dayem

OMG if my wife saw that my Cobra would be in cement. How about 20 ft wide. lol
joeg

Don't have an estimate for you but you might want to look into stamped concrete if you are looking for something different.

They can make it look like pavers, natural stone, etc.

This site has some pictures etc.

http://www.concretenetwork.com/concr...mped_concrete/

Just remember this formula, 1 yard will cover 80 sq. ft. 4 inches deep. Figure a little more for deeper edges (footings), say 5-6 inches.

Perry's about got it. We use 75 instead of 80 ( did the 80 more than once and we seem to come up short with the truck ). 4" is 3.5", use 2 X 4s for your forms. Put either a steel pin or wood stake every 2 to 3 feet ( closer of you are turning or adding ). Put an "added" 2 to 3 inches at the garage slab to help the transition.

Use 1/2 paper at 3 inches and crack it 10 X 10 ( unless you are fighting cracking, then 8 X 8 ). Either crack it or cut it with a saw while it is still green.

Use 6000 PSI over compressed sand will run you about $100 to $125 per yard here in Metro Detroit. Probably more in other areas. All you need to do is call the ready mix place and ask for 5 yards. Then ask for the Cartage costs.

Hope this helps, poured a lot of cement.

:D :D

Tru,
Why 6000psi for a driveway? Is that normal where you are for the temperature?

Here we would only use 3000 psi at the most and that holds up very well for driveways. I have even poured many hundreds, heck thousands of homes with 3000 psi mix.


Here it would cost about $100.00 to $120.00 a yard (delivered) as well. For something that small I would find a contractor to do it turnkey. Just make sure you pay him AND the concrete company. Turnkey, (3000 PSI) I would bet you could get it done for about $5.00 to $5.50 a square foot.

Of course any extras would be, well extra. Like pea gravel wash, or stamping, or coloring. But a nice light broom finish would serve you well, and it is the most affordable.

I have built many thousands of homes over the last 23 years. If you choose to do the labor yourself here are the formulas.



Concrete:
beams
10" wide 24" deep total slab area divided by 33 assuming 4" surface depth
10" wide 26" deep total slab area divided by 32 assuming 4" surface depth
10" wide 28" deep total slab area divided by 31 assuming 4" surface depth
10" wide 30" deep total slab area divided by 30 assuming 4" surface depth

OR
width x depth x 12 x linear foot
PLUS slab area X
0.3333 assuming 4" surface depth
0.4617 assuming 5" surface depth
0.5 assuming 6" surface depth

You might also want to know that some concrete companies have minimum orders. So if you order less than nine yards you will have to pay for a full nine yards. So if you only need 5 you will still pay for nine. make sure before you order, if so then make the driveway big enough to use all you will have to purchase.

You may also go to a local rental center. Some here have batch plants that will make the amount you want and you can pull it home in a trailer they will provide you. Yes, it cost a little more per yard, it is less than a whole truck. Just make sure you know all your options first.

Saving those formulas, Thanks.

Appreciate al lthe help. I have what i needed for info. can always count on CC forum.
joeg

Frost....
 

Steve, the reason for the 6K psi conc is freeze/thaw resistance. 3K psi won't make it in colder (read: freezing) climates as the expansion/contraction first causes cracks, then scaling and spalling of the surfaces. Pow! - crappy looking concrete; this is further aggravated huge when liberal doses of salt are put on the conc to melt ice.

Joeg, if you figure 15 yds. (20' x 35' x 6"tk. / 27cf/cy) you'll be good for quants - be aware it is very typical for the batch plant to load 26.7 to 26.8 cf/cy instead of exactly 27 cf/cy. And you always want to throw a bit away when done, rather than have a cold joint where you ran out. Wire mesh reinforcement helps keep it together if the subbase isn't perfect and is cheap insurance - now probably $100 a roll, get 2. Trucks usually can hold around 10 yards, so you'll need 2 which ought to preclude small load extra charges. 15 yards @ $160/yd = $2400, add for mesh ($200) and misc ($200+) and you should budget around $3000. That's a budget figure, not final cost.


-Roger

Simple formula:
length x width= ___ divided by 27 =__ divided by 12 =___ x thickness in inches = number of yards required
12.96 yards for 6 inch thick

Don't forget the rebar

Well Steve, I suppose you could use the 3k mix if you want.

In our area broom is code.

Steve, you omitted the rod from your beams, that's code also.

Never heard of a load priced to nine yards even if it was 5. The break up here is five. You can order 3 if you like but ready mix will change you for 5. Trucks hold 10 yards.

Steve, you walked around and watched crews build houses. You told me you hadn't lifted a hammer in years. :LOL:

I suppose SmokingCobra can job it out, but I think he is going to be hard pressed to get it done with quality for as little as $100. per.

Just my $0.02 worth

:D :D :D

Relative to Rogers comment ( well done Roger ), you will want to do an "on call" for the last load to adjust the amount.

Also, notice he scaled down the yard to 26.5 ( there abouts ), that is why we used to use 75 instead of 80.

Mud work is hard. Smokingcobra, if you are going to do this one yourself, get 2 grunts and two or three finishers. Pay the grunts $100. ( might be more in your area ) for the job. Pay the finishers $200 each ( cash ) for the job ( here again, might be more in your area ). 4 hours of work to do the pour.

Just a bit more info.

Steve, spalling look real bad.

:D :D :D

No I didn't forget about the re-bar... The question was the cement. or So I thought.
Of course you have to use rebar, or at least re-mesh in flat work. I always used re-bar, it just performs better.

Well I suppose due to the dramatic temp swings in the area the higher PSI would be a factor. I have poured industrial buildings here with 4,500 PSI with no problems at all.

I do agree the spalling looks crappy. We do not have that problem here as bad. The weather is not near as harsh here as it is there. My bad for not taking that into consideration.

Yes, you can do the job yourself, but you had better eat your Wheaties for breakfast because it will kill you if your not in good shape. Pulling mud on the ground is very hard work. It is very well worth the $100 per head for the help for the day. There is no way in hell I would attempt that size pour on my own. The mud will get hot and set before you can get it into place.

You also need to remember the trucks will not sit on the job and wait for you to finally get around to the pour. They want to drive up and empty, wash and leave as quick as possible. Sure they give you a reasonable time to do the work, but they will not tolerate you doing it alone.

Here, the trucks carry nine yards unless they are registered to carry ten. Most are not because of the extra tag fees every year. It is very expensive. They will charge you for the full truck, even if you just order one yard. The only exception is a "tag" on a large pour. You could order "ten and a tag" which would be 90 yards and the a partial truck load. In that situation they would not charge you for the full load. However, if the eleventh truck was a full truck and the twelfth truck was the tag they might charge you a delivery fee. That would depend on your relationship with the concrete company.

Do not forget that most companies are also charging a "fuel surcharge" now. I have seen it as high as $100. 00 per truck per load. So be sure to ask.

If you do not have an account with the concrete company you may have to pay in advance. You will want to ask about that as well.

Yeah!, don't forget the re-bar...like 'O'NO! did. and don't overlap them on the expansion joints.......

I had my 2200 (or so) sq ft crappy asphalt driveway/backyard broken up, hauled away, forms laid next to new driveway for plants, back area regraded, and 27 yards of concrete poured for $10,000, which was the cheapest of three bids.

I LOVE my new driveway!!!