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Best Starter ?
I have replaced four starters in the past 1 1/2 years. I have a 347 Stroker. I have tried starter insulation with no better results. I am using an Autolite Platinum from Shucks Auto Parts. Part # N581S. The Starter's burn up inside. My exhaust manifold is about 4" away from starter housing. This starter is small in size compaired to most starters, About 3" in diameter. Any recomendations on starter replacement? Does the overall size of the starter make any diffrence to its performance?
Jim |
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"Does the overall size of the starter make any diffrence to its performance? " So now your calling it a starter?%/
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Don, Thank's for the information. I called them and they were very helpfull. They said that their starters would eliminate hot start problims. Their starter has more horsepower but still the Autolite starter being used should be fine since it is the new style. He said that if a starter is over and inch away from headers even a blanket should not be needed. One starter broke apart the other three had hot start problims. I replaced the starter relay twice the last one was replaced a month ago. I was wondering if anyone else has experianced this problim, Shucks/Autolite keep replacing the starter free of charge but that isn't fair to them if I have a problim that is causing the starter to fail!
Jim |
I personally like the Ford Racing Starter.
they are --NEW --Durable ---and I have them on several cars with NO failures. http://www.fordracingparts.com/parts...tKeyField=9613 --Steve |
Steve, It is not nice to make fun of my equipment by suggesting that in some way I might be undersized and prone to failure when hot!!!!!. You are not only attacking me but all of us over 50 that love to boast of our performance through our cars. They say, Life begins at 50, so give us some slack!!!
Jim |
other problem
Jim,
You have something else wrong, check for binding as the drive gear goes into the ring gear.Also replace both battery cables with new # 1 cables, with the ground going directly to engine, you could have a high resistance connection and straining the starter if it does not have enough amperage. Good Luck, Perry. |
I cannot say if it any better but I have used the same Hitachi gear reduction mini starter for 18 years without any problems at all. There are knockoffs of this design and of others as well. The quality lies in the electrical field windings and insulation used. The OEM Hitachi uses an epoxy coated armature and sealed ball bearings on each end of the armature and a large bearing on the flywheel drive gear. Tilton uses them for the majority of their starter appplications.
If the design you have is a permanent magnet type (which it may), the intense heat could be affecting the permanent magnents over time. Have you considered wrapping the header tube(s) in the immediate vicinity of the starter to reduce the radiated heat?? Heat will increase the electrical resistance within the starter which may be part of your problem too. http://www.tiltonracing.com/incs/ima...?picture=s0052 |
Jim
Take that small block out and put in a FE. They usually have other problems so you never need a starter. I have the torque master and have never had a problem. Another way to solve the problem is to buy a starter in Canada like Jake. Fred |
Jim
I'm using the original big diameter starter with no problems. I agree with Perry above, your hot start issues are more likely electrical in nature and not the starter. Jim (in G.H.) |
Thats what I use is the big starter never a prob.
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Jim, I agree with Fred on this one. I have been very happy with my Canadian Bosch starter that was as much money as a mini-starter (long story). I would also like to encourage you to drop a 460 in your Cobra and then take it on the track....See what kind of things you get to fester about then. By the way, it was great seeing your Cobra memorabilia at the Thund Field show.
Jake |
I use CVR starters on the engines that I build. Never had a problem out of them, they will turn 13-14:1 compression easily, and they're reasonably priced at about $180-200.
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Jim,
One of the things that's really hard on starters is engine kick back when you first hit the key. Most higher compression, higher performance engines have mild to severe kick back when hot, especially if you have a standard ignition without start retard. I took the poor man's approach and have a seperate switch. The one one the column turns on all of the accessories and the starter, and I have a hidden switch that feeds power only to the coil. This switch is for security reasons as well as i can get the engine spinning before there is any spark to the plugs. This eliminates any kick back on the starter. What I would suggest is to get a good quality large body starter, install a insulation blanket on it and wire in a seperate coil power switch. If you do this I think it will be this last starter you ever have to buy. The same starter has been crankin over the ole girls 460 since '92 and 24,000 miles and shows no signs of givin up. Ray |
Jim:
Should you still be looking for starter alternatives, the Summit starter I purchased a few years ago for the 351W , have not had any problems: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku I had purchased this starter prior to using the starter mentioned earlier for the AMX http://www.robbmcperformance.com/index.html |
Jim:
Additional info from RobbMc Performance Products: *** Common Starter Installation Mistakes http://www.robbmcperformance.com/news/news_v2i4.html *** A list of links to all the newsletters: http://www.robbmcperformance.com/news/ *** RobbMc Performance Products http://www.robbmcperformance.com/ |
I had hot start problems with my 418W early on in ownership. Replaced it with a Ford Racing starter part number below. Hasn't missed a beat or start up in 5 years.
Starter M-11000-B50 Ford Racing Hi-Torque starter, 1.6 kw |
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