Brake Bias
 

Gents,

I was reading another thread on ths forum and it got me thinking. I'm interested in installing a brake bias ajustment cable on my CSX. If any of you have done this and can tell/show me how I go about installing it, I'd be very grateful. The one I am considering is this one but I'm open to suggestions. Also, I'd prefer an authentic type set-up if one was known to have been used on a comp car. Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Mike

I am installing an adjuster this week on CSX 3170, I plan on coming straight up behind the brake pedal with the cable and then mounting the adjuster on the bottom of the dash flange near the horn button (in my case the starter) so I can reach it with belts on.
I did a test this weekend and it will go from locking the fronts only to locking the rears only in 1 full turn of the adjuster. Years ago I made up about 10 different bias bars with the center pedal hole shifted in .020" increments. The original set up had way too much front bias so I kept changing bars until the car had a fairly aggressive stop.
Later on I had to change bars to accommodate smaller diameter fronts and different pad
combinations it was a real P.I.T.A to change because you had to do it from the top under the dash. It really does help stopping distances when it is perfect, having cockpit adjustable bias is nice because it is so easy to set.

Hi Mike, we have good set ups for adjusting brake bias having dual masters on our cars. Typically cars are set up as close as possible on the hydraulic cylinder sizing. There are some good online charts for that and I have an Excel spreadsheet I put together that has worked pretty well just plugging all the numbers into it. You can using that or practical results change the master cylinder sizes a 1/16" at a time to achieve optimum results. The usual approach is to allow full braking on the front with a little too much on the rears and then to hydraulically choke down the rears till the correct balance is achieved. The rears can be plumbed through a valve that can be mounted in the cockpit for on the fly adjustments as track, brakes and all change with heat and use. We can also change the balance bar mounted between our two masters as Bruce did. You will have an easier time changing balance bars as you have a removable bottom plate on your pedal box. The ideal set up is to have the mechanical adjustment of the bias on the master cylinder clevises. The only problem I see with that on the Cobras is the masters are under over. usually they are side by side on adjustables. You will need at least a high misalignment heim joint in the middle to accommodate that. Here is a look at the mechanism the control you show drives.
http://www.wilwood.com/Images/PEDALS...40-4745-lg.jpg

if you use a tilton balence bar, or a willwood, I like the tilton better, with a 7/16 bar, the bearing should be centered when you start,then as you move the bearing closest to the master cyinder you want better breaking. , read the directions from tilton .

Thanks for the help guys!

Nick: I do not see an image. Did you intend to attach one? "Here is a look at the mechanism the control you show drives."

I pulled the access panel underneath the pedal box to investigate the factory set-up. When the panel came off a broken stainless steel spring fell out! This is the spring that goes to the clutch pedal. The wierd part is that the spring was broke on both ends (where the spring attaches to a pin on the pedal and where it attaches to the cotter pin). Not sure how that happens. Anyway, now I need a new spring. Where do I get one? Maybe I'll buy a couple while I'm at it.

I love this topic! LOL

This is my latest version using a Wilwood balance bar/tube welded into the factory pedal.

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...assy_small.JPG
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...4-2008_028.jpg