Uhhh, that's AR, not AK. We need to get you an eye examination.:p

Well, he might as well be in AK as far as I'm concerned.

My eyes are fine, but I have this pain in my a$$...:rolleyes:

Well you should be dancing now that the new tax bill is going to be signed....;)

Remember, I live in CA. So, it's not all good news. And then there's that whole $1.5 Trillion being added to the deficit. :(

What's that tune - Smoke gets in my eyes.

I think I have my next "tinkering" project for this winter - pull and re-seal my Toploader.

So far Patrick I don't think I need one of those oil/air separators on my ERA - no PVC system and no oil vapor issues. But I do run them on my Lightning PU and my former 12 GT Mustang and current GT350 Mustang. Collect a bunch oil in them in the Mustangs.

https://preview.ibb.co/gQds26/IMG_0254.jpg


A recent Mcclusky CSX 33-- restoration that is in our shop

Just saw CSX 3239 posted from Barrett-Jackson. Not sure if these are original, but they appear to be plastic, and definitely not Girling.

Evan - well that is interesting. Leaning towards just leaving mine well enough alone. I'm no more inaccurate in that detail than that obviously beautiful original (mostly original?).

What are you planning to go with on your ERA?

Girlings. Until they leak, and then ???

Since I'm a little way behind you Evan, I will be watching this. I sure like the idea of the Girlings, but hate the idea of brake fluid eating into the finishes of everything below them.

Bobby

We can help with that a little (the "we" includes patrickt). The fluid cans have a nipple on the bottom with a compression fitting. They need to be taken apart and sealed with a brake resistant sealer when reassembled. Here is a thread patrickt started on this.

http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/all-...eservoirs.html

I believe I used a different sealer but as long as it's fuel/brake resistant it should work.

Next step is to buy brake cylinder cap gaskets for a closed system. Patrick wrote about this somewhere too but I couldn't locate it. Here is what you will need.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...psiqxqxfat.jpg

These will gasket the cap to prevent a leak and have the inner bellows that follows any drop in fluid level.

The 3rd step that ERAChase passed along was to double clamp the rubber hoses to the metal lines, orienting the two clamps 180 degrees apart. Here is a picture.

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...pslbp0ivn4.jpg

And 4th - don't fill the reservoirs much over about half full. They are small but significant fluid is also in the long lines down to the master cylinder. I've seen larger (longer) cans but ERA provided the standard smaller ones. I'm not sure what size was actually used on the S/C cars. I've seen pictures with the large cans for the brakes and the standard can for the clutch. And I've seen pictures with standard cans for all three. It's good practice to check the fluid level every few months. Mine have been on for about 5 years now and are leak free (knock on my head (wood)). Still, I often run a finger around the bottom and along the lines just to make sure they are staying that way.

Girling Reservoirs have improved since I had mine put on (and since I sealed them up). These from Moss Motors are much better made than even the originals, much less the replicas: https://mossmotors.com/tank-assembly-single-supply

Here is a link to the instructions that come with the cans: https://mossmotors.com/media/instructions/582-976.pdf

Well heck - that takes all the work out of it. They have two part numbers BN1 and BN2 - I wonder if they are two different length cans?

No, BN1 and BN2 were the two models of Austin Healey cars that used them.;)

OK then, looks like the ones from Moss are the way to go. Now to find the next thing for me to fret over...

Not sure what level of completion you are having ERA perform - but if you are doing some of the assembly you may still want to purchase the pre-bent lines kit from ERA. They will include a handy template for mounting the reservoirs on the wheel well aluminum. :)

I just received my reservoirs from Retro-UK. Very high quality! I could tell as soon as I unwrapped one. These are not converted glue cans. Weigh about twice as much as other reservoirs I’ve held. Pricey but as close to original as I could find.
Larry

Thanks Dan, that's good info. It will be painted up there, but still on casters when I pick it up, so still plenty of assembly to do.

Larry - do you have a link to them or any photos?

Retro-uk - Misc parts

I wish the bottom fitting was mounted off-center as originals were but I’ll make it do.
Larry