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cobra bodywork blueprints, 3d's, anything!
Hello!
I need any sort of blueprint, plan, cross section or, ideally, 3D model of the Cobra bodywork. I live in Romania, where one doesn't see to many kit cars, and I want to build my own from scratch. I am an architect and I could redesign and build the 'tub', plus I have friends who can help me with the mechanical part; so, it's a fairly realisable dream.. Greatfully, Stefan Catalin, stefan@w4.evercomm.ro |
blueprints
Stephan,
Don't know of any body blueprints developed in totality other than by the KIRKHAMS with a laser driven modeler for the aluminum tooling on their cars. Sure there are bits and pieces on the bodies, you've got to remember there almost 10 models of COBRAs, so I am assuming you are meaning the 427 S/C that most all note as a COBRA? There are several frame drawing sales outlets, from the original designs, Factory Five, and a few other rectangular "hot rod" frames thrown in, from $150 to $350. That would save you a lot of time trying to establish the drawings, since there are 40 hours plus in a "developed" single 24x36 sheet of drawings, you could easily run up 500 plus hours to get it done from scratch. That said, what chassis are you duplicating? grumpy |
Want Grumpy's chassis info
Grumpy I am receintly divorced and my son really wants to build a cobra. I am an engineer and have spent many hours fighting with the latest cad programs (so I know where you are coming from). I have purchased some books on chassis design and will start as soon as I am done helping a friend gut and replace a kitchen.
I plan to first buy the original 427 plans from Cobra Restores to get the main points done for me. I have been told that these are difficult to build and are not as strong or adaptable to glass bodies as the newer designs. Where can I find chassis plans for a 427 that will fit most bodies? I am also considering using stainless steel even though this will add weight (for the identical strength). Has anyone else used stainless steel? Iggy |
Iggy,
Please eMail pvt eMail of your items and we'll exchange a few notes. grumpy |
Gumpy, I think that I sent you a pvt email. Did you receive it? I would like an independant rear, but may use a straight axel to save cost. I will also use a small block, for now, with a 5-speed.
Iggy |
Rear Design
Iggy,
The rear design is just as cost effective to go with the IRS. The number or stainless forged urethane joints cost that of a 5 link live axle when you figure in the better grade w/ poly jackets for keeping out the grit, due to the loading. If I even thought of a small block it would be a 351W that I later swapped for a 392 stroker of that type. Now if you're going to build a REPLICA 289 Comp version or FIA, then a small block for sure. Did not receive your eMail, or would have sent the stainless pics you wanted. grumpy |
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