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thats a keen observation, and yes they are. I did that so the throttle cable that I have would work( push instead of pull) But I'm not sure I'm going to be using it, I might swap them back around. But I don't think thats causing my backfires, do you?
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Dodgy (also spelt dodgey) is a aussie term.
Australian term. 1. Something or someone that is a bit suspicious, doesn't seem quite right. Doesn't seem the real deal. 2. Slack, broken, worthless or useless. 3. Not very appealing. 1. That car salesman seemed a bit dodgey. 2. This old car is pretty dodgey. 3. That band last night were pretty dodgey. It isnt a personal insult and it isn't a reference to Mopar but maybe Dodge wasn't popular here and that's where the term originated? I'll have to try and find out now, I'm curious if it is derived from a car reference. 1/4 inch is pretty solid, unless you're trying to impress a girl. Will you tap threads and bolt the body to the chassis? Re the backfiring, do you have vacuum advance? Have you tried it connected and disconnected? Have you measured manifold vacuum at idle? That may tell us a story. I am not a weber expert, not even slightly so will leave that to the pro's here. |
I figured that is what it meant, I've just never heard it before. I didn't take any offense to it, I was just curious.
I already have the mounting holes drilled and tapped. I have 4 mounting spots in the trunk, 6 on the floor, and 2 on the nose with 3 inch diameter washers on 3/8 bolts. Also I have 1/4 inch rubber to go between the frame and body to reduce stress on the body. I don't have the vacuum advance hooked up yet. On Monday, as soon as I get a vacuum line to connect I'll try it out. |
leave the rubber out.....my body is bolted flat to the frame and havent had any problems in 9 years with stress on the mounting bolts or body.
the backfire thing sounds like a timeing issue to me but then again i'm no expert... |
I'm really enjoying this particular build. It's on the rougher side of the fence (IMHO), but the overall execution is actually quite good and I like how the OP is using whatever parts he can find to make it all work. Keep at it! Your overall skills kick my ass.
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Th CR's just use foam tape between the body and the frame. These cars are not designed with enough/any structural support in the body mounting locations to be able to use rubber isolators. Foam tape and bolt it down.
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new progrees
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I got the engine running good, I just had to tweek the carbs a timing a little bit. I got the fenderwells fitted and built the dash. I took several pics but only one wants to load. I tried to make the dash look as close to original as I could but it's a little off. The body will be permanently mounted tomorrow.
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Curl the dash forward and under at the ends. Great progress in a short time!
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Hi thefordguy. Looking good cobra. Good luck and keep it up. :)
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Quote:
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What Mickmate is saying is that the outer ends of the dash need to be curled inwards under the cowl instead of outwards as they are now. Also, I'm not sure if you already have, but make sure you bend a 90 degree lip into the bottom edge of the dash panel as it is essential to providing a bit of structural rigidity.
Very interesting thread - keep the pics and updates coming! |
new progress
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I got the underside painted today, still did not get the body mounted today. I took some pics of my pluming since it was the last time I will have the body off. I do not know how I am supposed to mount the windshield, it seems kinda flimsy to me, it only has a few screw holes in the sides for mounting.
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steering
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I got the steering mocked up. I had to clearance the upper control arm a bit so I welded in a plate to strengthen it up before I started grinding on it. I thought the angle between shafts was a little steep but I can turn it from lock to lock and there's no binding.
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thefordguy,
Hate to say this but the angle of the steering shaft looks positively scary! Is the rack (steering box?) mounted correctly? Could it be rotated a bit to reduce the angle? It may rotate OK without any load, but when you put wide tires on, put the weight of the car on the tires and try to corner spiritedly, that could change. And it wouldn't be the right time to find out there's a problem :eek: Just my 2 cents.... Tom |
I agree with Tom. You might want to change that steering to have two universal joints and then run a hiem joint to keep the whole thing from flexing. Check out my photos (click the camera icon under my name) . There is at least one that has my steering setup in it.
edit, attached photo http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...1761_small.JPG |
the problem with the steering angle is that the power steering pump is right in the way. The steering is just mocked up right now, nothing is set in stone. My original plan was to add another u joint and a heim joint. I have them already, but I haven't figured out where to mount the heim joint which is why I tried it without. where did you mount yours, I can't really tell in the pic? I noticed your alternator is on the opposite side as mine and it's a GM style , what brackets did you use for mounting it on the drivers side?
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There's too much angle on both the u-joint and the rag joint. Get the power steering pump out of the way and replace that rag with a universal. You don't need power steering on something that light anyway. Borgeson says 35 deg max on a u-joint and straight for a rag joint. The rags are just for vibration.
http://borgeson.com/Images/09Catalog.pdf |
it's a power rack, do you still think it wont matter. If so problem solved.
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I see that, bolt in a manual one that has the same geometry.
http://www.flamingriver.com/index.php/products/search |
no manual rack for an 89 mustang there that i could find.
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