planning and starting
 

First I want to thank everyone here for being good people. I see y'all being supportive, helpful, encouraging and enthusiastic. On the other forums I'm active on, I see nothing but bashing new ideas, criticizing imperfect welds, even non-structural, and just total negativity.
My real name is Dave, and I really do live on a farm. I'm in my mid-30s, and I've always been a Camaro enthusiast. I've built my own Jeep CJ5 from scratch, and it turned out fine, except it's nothing to look at, and it's now sold.
I believe regular guys have a right to build low-dollar copies of the costliest toys on earth. I believe in building around an idea, rather than just for a purpose only.
I have recently had cause to work on several Ford FE engines, and have found a couple I can have at scrap value.
I'm looking to use an '84-'89 Nissan 300ZX IRS, an '82-'93 Chevrolet S-10 IFS, 15x8 and 15x10 wheels with BFG Radial T/As in 245/60 and 295/50 sizes.
This isn't being built to fit any particular body shell, nor any particular rules for any sort of racing or competition.
This is just how cheap can I put together a road-legal "427" Cobra?
Nearly everything will be salvaged or fabricated, no new aftermarket parts if possible.
I'd like to have it moving around under it's own power within 16 months.
I'm not spending $200 for plans, I'm begging for a few measurements for free. What I can't get, I'll guess at.

Well that's a noble purpose you have there Dave, and I'm sure many will offer advice for tech stuff. The parts you've laid-out so far are not common to nearly all of our replicas so dimensions will probably be scarce.
Beyond the 90" wheelbase, 56" track and 156" LOA - not much else translates to your parts.
My word of caution is that combining an FE with a ZX IRS may be problematic. Even a bone-yard budget FE can be built to 350 to 400HP level. With 295's, will that IRS live with that power? Engine location and trans selection will affect driveshaft length-so I think you mostly have to cut and fit as you go.
Steering geometry and IRS geometry will come from your source vehicles so I don't think we can be much help there.
Good luck and post questions as you go, most guys here will point you right if they can.

Dave-You can do it. Started my first scratch built frame with a Jag rear, MG front and 90" between them. Used 4' ground clearance for the frame. I then bought a body, set it down on the frame and built the rest of the frame. I would suggest buying a body with the doors, hood and boot hinged- makes it a lot easier, especially on your first one. We'd love to follow your build here. Good luck, Bill.

Welcome to the club of nuts...


Did you ever looked into the Miata drivetrain? The IFS, tranny the IRS is there. Shorten the drive shaft, beef up the half shafts and the train is ready for a 302. Some small mods and you have pretty much what you need.

Plenty Monster V8 Miatas out there to read about. The base suspension is very good and with a few aftermarket parts you have a hell of a car.



http://www.mazda-speed.com/albums/Un...rain.sized.jpg



To build a frame around is not that complicated.


http://www.flyinmiata.com/images/mis...A/DSC01612.jpg

Pretty stunning, right?



http://www.flyinmiata.com/images/mis...A/IMG_3840.jpg

Thanks! I appreciate the comments, and will try to return the kindnesses.
ERA: The 300ZX stuff is adequate to 60' times in the 1.6s with 3000#, on drag radials, so I'm not worried about that. The 300ZX rear can be had for under $200, and I've experienced it's supremacy to Camaros / Mustangs when taking rough corners too fast. Demand is low. Also, it looks like I'll be starting with a C6 and a 1500-stall converter, so no shock-loading. I don't do "neutral-slams". Worst, this elevation steals roughly 15% of the power any engine would make at sea level.
Bill: Spending $6000 on a body is FAR beyond my budget, and I'm not seeing any for $1500. This car may never get a correct body, unless someday someone wants to buy my rolling chassis. I'm more likely to build a wooden buck, then make my own body. I've always wanted to do that, I do have some experience with fiberglass, an apprenticeship at a boat shop. And with the wooden buck, it's easy to get symmetry and make revisions if needed. Plus doing the deal fits the budget. Let's hope I have a good eye and a good sense of proportions.
G-Pete: That black car is stunning. I love your build thread, but you're doing so many details I wouldn't bother with. I love the Monster Miatas. But there's a truth that you get best results working with what you know, and I don't believe this is the time to stray too far from what I'm comfortable with.
I'm a couple of weeks away from going after the suspensions, but once I get those home I can start laying things out for building the frame. In the meantime, I'll be cleaning my garage and working on the engine. I have a thread on it in the sub-forum for FEs.

I hear ya Dave, just one thing...keep in mind:

http://forums.watchuseek.com/attachm...t_pictures.jpg


:LOL::LOL::LOL:


Good luck with your build and keep us updated!

Try to find something like a damaged or used glass body and repair/complete it. I bought one for about $1000 several years ago that had the doors, hood and trunk lid missing. It was relatively easy to make these parts from fibreglass.

Simon

Hi Dave!

I got a rough idea about what possibilities you explore. Get a body with main tub first.

There should be some around for $1.500, even if damaged. Then place the drivetrain. You will find a few measurements where the engine sits off the ground and from the front here. If not, ask.

Then position your wheels under the body, with tires. Work from here inwards to your chassis (that you make?).

Ground clearance for the 4" tube chassis is 5".

In the rear the block rests on a 3/4" square channel.

Hey friends, sorry it's been a little while.
But I've scored 2 C6s and a mystery manual transmission, it looks like a 3-speed, iron-case top-loader. Luckily it has a build tag on it, plus some casting numbers, so maybe I can find out what it is, and if it's strong enough to get started with.
I found an '86 300ZX to get the rear suspension and diff from, but it's a 3.70:1 open, not a 3.36:1 limited-slip. The price is $250 for the whole assembly, I just gotta go after it next Saturday. Then I'll post pics.

if you use the late 89 onwards IRS you will have no issues, we run 800hp through them in various forms of motorsport and have no issues mechanical 1.5 and 2 way centres are easy and cheap to source. The gearbox is the same gearset in the legendary GTR skylines and we run 9-10sec 1/4s on them unopened, 2 gear is the weak point with 4wd traction but in 2wd they are generally reliable to 600-650whp.

Sounds like a great project and i will keep a eye on this thread.