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Nuts and bolts
I'm just wondering what everybody does with their nuts and bolts? If you use black anodized bolts, they rust. Galvanized looks stupid with a dark frame, and paint chips off.
I've been powder coating most of the bolts, but this is horrendously time consuming. What does everybody do? |
Nothing. Use ARP black oxide, or their stainless in non critical applications, or to reduce expense, plated grade 5 or 8.
Side note: Various authorities advise against using Grade 8 bolts in a shear applications, because they are very brittle and can fracture before deforming. Consider bolts in critical applications such as suspension mounts and pivots and some steering components as maintainence items and replace them on a regular schedule. They have an anticipated life expectancy. At the Nor Cal Mini Nats last month, a rear lower suspension link pivot bolt fractured on Gordon Gimbels Lotus/Ford allowing a huge toe change in the LR tire at about 80 MPH. Fortunately the driver was able to keep it off the wall, without a lot of damage, but it could have been disasterous. |
www.mscdirect.com has a good selection of stainless and black SAE and metric fasteners and their service is second to none. A light glass bead blasting at 50-60 psi will give stainless bolts a soft, gray finish.
Lowell |
hi rick,
grade 8 is that about 12.9? then I agree. use 10.9 for suspension parts. dom |
I totally agree with Rick Parker. When I first built my roadster I used grade 8 1/2" bolts to secure the trailing arms of the rear suspension. I broke the upper front bolts twice and finally decided to use a grade 5 bolt because the grade 8s were so brittle. Three years later and I haven't broken a single grade 5 bolt. There is a world of difference between clamping power and shear strength. The higher the bolt grade, the higher the clamping strength but also the lower the shear strength.
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ARP 12 point stainless are really cool.
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If grade 5 and 8 are to SAE, what is it for metrics?
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