CSX4158 For Sale, but Salvage due to Flood

[snakehunter]

The paint is due for a very intensive correction (polishing/leveling) from previous care and the water/dirt damage, but we're on the fence about a full repaint. Probably not at this time.

We try to protect the paint but I'm used to working around these cars, and the aluminum bodywork isn't soft in the sense that you'd think. Fenders are high crown and very stiff, for instance.

And honestly, the paintwork on these cars is not that stellar. Its nice driver or local show material, not concours stuff. So the pads, blankets and silk panties just get in the way for now.

If you want to know more about the other cars, feel free to PM me, i don't want to go too far OT.

[Tom Wells]

snakehunter,

several sections of the intake gaskets were tearing or separating

That snake was about to be bit by the Fel-Pro Print-O-Seal intake gasket failure demon. If you Google it you'll get thousands of hits.

The thing to watch is when you go back on with the intake, use a Victor Reinz reinforced gasket, or at least one of the newer Fel-Pro steel shim reinforced ones. Don't, under any circumstances use the Fel-Pro Print-O-Seal nonreinforced gaskets unless you like changing them and picking up the repairs they conspire to cause.

Have fun,

Tom

[snakehunter]

excellent, thanks! I was wondering about an alternative to those cracked gaskets.

While we're on the subject, the head gaskets are new to me also - is anyone familiar with these? I've never used the FelPro composite gasket, but when the heads came off, they didn't seem to have that adhesion that traditional gaskets usually have. They literally fell off the deck surface!

[somedayaurora]

Love the update . Follow up too RedB request if you want to start another thread , Im sure you might have some fans . That being said I realize you probably have a life and don't have time to be on-line entertaining us , especially if you type like me . Great job ; I'm sure you now have some members wondering about the advice there guidance counselor gave them career wise " I could be working/playing with cobras and lambos and gettin paid!?
SDR
________
Mercedes-benz sprinter

[snakehunter]

Time flies. Three weeks have gone by already?

Well, the transmission is back together, just need a new tailshaft seal. Everything looked great and there were no signs of water damage to gears or bearings. The TO bearing felt notchy so it will be replaced, along with an update for the hydraulic actuator at Mcleod.

I'll have to reshoot the pics, but basically there are two AN-banjo fittings on the actuator which have been changed to a more positive sealing fitting. If you have a TO setup with phillips head screws attaching the banjos, I'm told there's a possibility of leakage over time. This one appeared ok.



Synchros and brass have nice sharp points on the teeth, as does the slider gear, which is a good sign.



This is the dual friction disc, which isn't available as a replaceable wear item - you have to get the whole shooting match for about $400.
I called Mcleod for a quote and they have a nice clutch/pp combo for a little more, but it is 12" and requires their flywheel, which brings the total to over $1000.

We have some local racers that have their discs relined at a shop in Dayton, Oh and resurface the centerforce plates. I'm thinking of going this route - any suggestions?



Bellhousing was crusty, pressure plate surface rusty and disc pretty worn.

[snakehunter]

Ironically, there's little to no water damage in the block. However there is a lot of 'dirt' damage and some odd wear. Check it out...



a little water here...


seems like a lot of slack - over 1/4" on this Rollmaster chain.



cam is kinda ugly. I'll replace it buy I have no clue what the specs are yet. Haven't had any luck tracing these numbers...


Yuck!








Lots of dirt scoring on the rod journals, front main has an obvious wear pattern. Rod and main bearings were worn through to copper and heavily scored.



So far it looks like the crank will clean up at .010".
Rods are Eagle, and will get new ARP bolts and resized
Pistons appear to be Arias...Hope the bores clean up, I don't want to have to but another set of these!

[snakehunter]

By the way, the machinist's suggestion was that the engine was assembled by 'inexperienced hands' and not kept in a clean environment during the process. For only 2300 miles, I wouldn't expect this much wear, even with hard use.

Also, I found that about half the main studs were torqued to over 150 ft/lbs! Shelby spec is 85. Can't say accurately whether the rods were over-torqued or not. Lots of silicone sealer is used on pan, intake and other sealing surfaces. Oil galley plugs were super tight - not corroded, just tight.

The main caps are cross bolted, but with only grade 8 hardware on the sides. This will be replaced with ARP or similar if available.

Bores have some scuffing on the thrust sides but crosshatching is still visible.