|
Sidepipe Rattle
I posted this a week ago and then it was gone. I guess when the server came back to life, it killed a bunch of threads.
Anyway, I need some help from guys who have Shell Valley made side pipes. After 12,000 miles in 5 years both of my pipes are rattling. I know people say to use sheet metal screws in the bottom of the pipes, BUT what I am looking for is; where to drill, what size drill, what size and length stainless steel self tapping screws to use. Does Shell Valley have anything in printed form to tell you how to eliminate the rattle? Just looking for some help. Thanks, Jim |
Raddle
Where to drill is just a guess. From the back side some where in the middle area.
|
I will watch this post also. My right sidepipe rattles and I tried 1 1/2"
self tapping skrews no help. Thinking of going with 2 1/2" skrews next. :D |
Hey guys,
I may have something to add here. I had an annoying rattle in the driverside pipe. Everytime I shut down the engine or was sitting at a stop idling you could hear it rattling. I figured I just needed to add new sidepipes to the list of things my car needed. One day while fixing a leak at the collector flange I had the sidepipe removed from the car and turned it on end and a little 5/16 nut came out. No more rattle but It's still a mystery what that nut came off of or what it was doing in there. Good luck, John |
Quote:
Off topic, but ever left your car alone at a car show? Sometimes the aholes like to throw stuff in the sidepipes, and I have even heard tell of people throwing pennies etc into open weber carbs... lots of owners stop up all the holes with tennis balls etc to stop this from happening at shows when they can't be beside their cars all day long. James |
I have the same rattle. What exactly is it inside the pipe? Guess I'll call SV and see what they say.
|
Well, that took care of it. I called SV. There's a glass pac inside pipe that is tac welded and breaks loose. Said to use 1 1/2 - 2" sheet metal screw and drill half way up at about 4 o'clock (as you're looking at the back of the car at the pipe) and that should take care of it.
|
at the end or the middle or front?
|
In the middle.
|
thanks. it seems like too simple of a fix.
|
Quote:
|
This appeared to be the ongoing solution as arrived at by their Special Vehicle Engineering and Design Team. Any more I'm just happy when people answer my calls and don't act like it's something I did wrong, plus they actually had some type of solution (lame as it was). Guess I have lowered the bar with respect to my expectations after owning a motorcycle. Last time I called them was to notify them that my gas tank liner had disolved and flaked into a million little pieces which screwed up the carb and engine. They acknowledged they had heard of the problem, then asked me how I got their number and told me not to call again, telling me "You've got a custom hot-rod bike and you should expect problems once in a while."%/
|
I contacted SV just this week asking if they were ever coming out with a flange kit to replace the flakey slip joint arrangement the cars come with. The sealing of the slip joints with gasket sealer is a crappy way to seal the exhaust system. I've got 6800 miles on my car since I finished the build in Jan 05 and have sealed the exhaust system about 4 times. The slip joints start rattling when the exhaust sealer finally burns/blows away. I was informed that they would bring up a flange kit fix at the next "managers" meeting. These flanges can be purchased already, I'm just not sure if the pipe size is the same as is on my SBF exhaust pipes. I tack welded my slip joints to the exhaust pipe to stop the rattling, and that worked to some extent, but I still have to go in about every 6 months and re-seal with hi-temp RTV. I've scratched my door twice removing the pipes, so its a painful experience. As soon as I get the new lift up in my shop, I plan to purchase some flanges and permanently fix my leaky pipes. The rattling, exhaust leaks, and back firing on coast down is to much to continue to deal with.
Outlaw |
I have a customer with a loose core also---I think I can weld the rear of it thru the turn out--if it works out I'll post again
Jerry |
Did the "screw thing" and it did fix the rattle.:)
|
Outlaw, once the slip joints are replaced how will the exhaust move on it's brackets? If the brackets have little, or no movement something has to give from the torque. GM, and Dodge use a tongue, and groove bracket that will allow the system to slip back, forth, up, and down. If anyone is interest I will take a pic, and post it.
|
I also used the screw to keep the pipes from rattling. My slip joints also leaked as well as the headers to the head. Solved the problem by having new headers built which go to a four bolt flange. Replaced the mufflers with higher quality mufflers. The headers and four bolt flange are built so well I do not need any gasket and have zero leaks. I guess you get what you pay for.
|
2frolic,
I agree with your concerns on exhaust movement, and some allowance for movement must be built in somehow. Factory five has flanges and their sidepipes bolt to the frame just like ours do I believe. I have some heavy rubber "pads" between the bolt and the outer frame where they mount. I'll have to take another look at my buddys FFR to see what they used. But you are absolutely right that there must be some freeplay, otherwise we'll be cracking exhaust parts....not a good thing. outlaw |
Sounds like the rattle in the side pipes is a old and on going problem, All I have heard is put a screw in the side pipe ? I , like others have had the side pipes coated and the idea of a screw head hanging out there dosn't seem like a good answer . Anyone got a better answer ???
|
I have a hurricane and my side pipes would rattle as well and the rattle was at the slip joints. What i did was put a large hose clamp all the way around where the the pipes slip together, it squeezed the pipes together so they could't move and no more rattle. You might try that before you start drilling holes. If that doesn't make any difference then your problem is probably inside the muffler part.
|
| All times are GMT -7. The time now is 01:51 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link: