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Ref info
Jim, Here is some ref info when you put it back together. The crush sleeve is set (collapsed) using a torque to turn figure in the 10-30 inch pounds range depending on new or used bearings. I have never set up one with the solid sleeve , but I am sure someone here on CC has. good luck
http://www.richmondgear.com/ringandpinion.pdf |
Use the solid pinion spacer.
You want a certain amount of drag on the pinion bearings. To get that drag, you do a trial and error of solid spacer shims. When you get it to where you want it, then you just torque down the pinion nut. This is 100 times easier than using a crush sleeve, where you have to put a tremendous amount of torque on the pinion nut to crush the sleeve....then if you go too far, you have to start all over again with a new sleeve. Also, if something happens and you have to change a pinion seal or something like that, you just take it apart and put it back together without worrying about having to use a new crush sleeve. To set it up, you put the solid spacer in between the bearings and tighten it down. Measure rotating drag (preload) and adjust with shims as needed. It's very simple and straight forward. |
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The one in my race car has been in it 4 years now, I change the oil in that one, once a season, so far no problems!!!!!!!!!!!!! I hate crush sleeves!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! David |
Next question..... I set the backlash and pinion depth. I've got a real good pattern. Now on to set the carrier bearing preload. I set the preload with the caps at 20ft/lb. Then when I torque the caps to the required 75ft/lbs, the resistance or preload increases dramatically. 19in/lbs -35in/lbs. I haven't read anything about checking the preload with the caps at full torque. Am I being concerned over nothing?
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Your doing things out of order
First do the pinion----Then pinion depth---then adjust the carrier bearings over until no slack on the tooth contact between pinion and ring gear---then tighten the right side carrier bearing adjuster until you get the backlash you need--this will give you the correct amount of carrier bearing preload--- Some hints----take a old used pinion nut and grind or cut off the crimped lock portion so you can go on and off easy---set pinion load with out the seal and add it after you come up with spacer thickness for preload, then add seal and new pinion nut to proper torque use two sets of feeler guages to shim out the pinion support to find the right pinion depth, then replace with the ford shims oil the carrier adjuster nuts so they will turn easier oil the bearings also if your not happy with the way it turns out do it over, and over, and over |
It seems there are a few different ways to set carrier bearing preload. I'm comfortable with that. My concern now is the increase in preload when the bearing caps are tightened. This may be normal as the race is 2.891 and the cap is 2.865.
Thanks for all the help so far. There's a great write up on Ford-trucks.com that seems to be the standard. It's interesting that this thread also shows up on a Google search about 9" rebulding. |
Strange has a spacer pack that uses captured shims to adjust the pinion preload---
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Ok, I'm convinced something is very wrong. I do not believe torqueing the carrier bearing caps to spec should result in this much added preload. Close inspection of the original carrier bearings show wear like the bearing was being squashed into an oval. It almost as if the bearing cap was milled down. The adjsters won't turn with the slightest torque on the caps. I believe this is why the original bearing failed.
Can this case be machined or would a new center section be a better bet? |
Look at this picture of the one "good" race. Notice the wear pattern and how it coincides with the mark on the outside of the race. Does that not look like the bearing was squashed a bit?
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...rrier_race.jpg |
these are directions for the chrysler corporate axle case bearing preload and backlash adjustment it may give you some ideas.
start with case in place and bearing caps finger tight remove all case bearing end play while maintaining a back lash of 0.010" measure backlash at four places with a dial indicator and mark point of minimum backlash (take backlash readings at this mark) loosen right side adjuster and tighten left side adjuster to reduce backlash to 0.003"-0.004" while maintaining 10 ft lbs tourque on each adjuster tourqued bearing caps to 70 ft lbs tighten right side adjuster to 75 foot pounds (this should increase the 0.003-0.004 above up to .005-.008) retourque right side adjuster while seating bearings until tourque remains at a constant 75 ft lbs measure backlash to insure is .005-.008" (if not) adjust tourque on right side adjuster until back lash is between .005-.008" measure left side tourque to insure minimum of 75 ft lbs. |
Don't know much about 9" But could the caps have been switched side for side or possibly wrong caps from the factory?
Easy to check the bore, just torque them down without the carrier & mike them. Craig |
Strange engineering will bore and thread for the next bigger bearing size--they just exchanged cases with me when I went to 35 spline axles
They also now have a lightened nine inch nodular housing -something like 7 pounds lighter |
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That said it is normal for the preload of carrier brgs to increase slightly with torque of bolts as the thread angle of the adjuster nuts induce this. |
The caps are not switched side to side. They were marked prior to removal. I even tried swapping just to see if that would help. The adjuster threads don't even come close to lining up.
I have a new case ordered. This diff was built by Tex racing. It seems odd that they would have left it that way. |
New carrier came in today. It confirms that my old one was not right. Things going together fine now and I don't feel like a retard.
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