Bell housing Clearance Problem
 

My starter motor is just touching my frame. I figure I have two options...
1. Cut/grind out the frame (2x4 box tubing) and weld in a gusset.
2. Trim off the flange of the bell housing (easier).
Which of the two is better? Are there third or fourth alternatives.
- Twelve-year project. Determined to get it going this year (2010).
Thanks.

Have you considered using Mini Starter? (Smaller diameter, shorter, less current draw)

Cutting a structural member of the frame would be the last option for me.

The starter itself is not touching. It is the flange of the bell housing and the steel plate between the bell housing and the block.
How much clearance do I need?
This is a small block - fairly stock 289 - if that makes any difference.
Thanks again for input.

Trim the bellhousing PERIOD. 3/8"-1/2" is plenty. Is this a standard bellhousing or aftermarket type such as McLeod, aftermarket has a flange that can be trimmed but OEM type has less material.

Trim the bell for sure but take the sticker off first that says not to modify it.
http://www.kirkhammotorsports.com/ma...ld/index.shtml

It's an aluminum bell housing. I am assuming it is of the same vintage as the block ('64). I do the trimming on that.
Thanks for the help.

If there's enough meat there sure.

Nick, did you get my email?

Couple of ideas
 

llama man First off DON'T trim the bell housing, with it being aluminium.
If you are building a perfectly period correct cobra then look at theses ideas.
Move the motor mount on the frame. right to left, up or down. I can't answer for other cobras buy ERA builts the motor to sit about 1" off to the right for weight balance of the car with 1 person in it. Remove the motor and find the center of the car frame between the motor supports and see how far out it is. If it's a little, a 1/4" of movement should be all you need, if over an inch, cut off and reweld motor supports to the frame. Make sure you box them in when done. Slotted ones work the best and are easiest to move the motor around in. Have to remember that the mounts if rubber will settle with the weight on them over time, and twisting of the motor when running will also move things around a little.
Shim the motor with washers to change the height to clear the bell housing.
If it's just the backing plate( it should be steel) grind it down until you have 1/4" of clearance.
Is there a right and left motor mount? could it be flipped or wrong side on wrong side?
The other thing is to buy a good bellhousing for your self and your legs. Yes this has been done to death but either a Lakewood or Quick time would be the answer for protection and Quicktime has a tigher bell housing between the motor and trans. Things do break over time or abuse, having 10 little ugly,hairy toes and walking is great thing. Overbuild the car. If you don't like a red or gold bell housing paint it to match the motor color.
Has the transmission and mount been installed for the correct angle ? Hope one of these ideas help, if not you might want to take the car to a chassis shop and have them fix the frame and center the motor to 1/2" off right side. Rick L.

Hey Brent, you're about the best in the business for customer service, right up there with Bob Lacey. I did get your e-mail thanks and I'll be in touch with an order.

Nick, glad you got it. Sometimes I have trouble with my email going to spam. I don't want anyone to think that I'm ignoring them.

Third Option
 

Llama Man,

Rick has given you a good option. However, here's quicker and better one. Make your motor mounts solid. If you have rubber mounts, you can probably just weld a piece of steel strap on either side. (Do it outside so the smoke won't choke you. :D) If the bell housing is just touching and the mounts are solid, you'll be fine. Your transmission mount cannot be solid. If you can find one, install a polyurethane tranny mount (instead of rubber) that will be better. It will move some and the bell housing will "self-clearance". Get that Cobra on the road!

There are multiple benefits with this approach.

1. Your headers and side pipes will not be constantly breaking due to side to side rocking. I learned this from Ron Butler after years of fighting this problem.
2. You will not need a ground strap (weight and cost savings).
3. You will have instant acceleration when you let out the clutch.
4. You feel everything the engine is doing, like when a plug wire falls off.
5. If the engine is built well, you will not feel vibration unless something is wrong.

RallySnake