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Shop Talk
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| dlampe |
11-28-2009 09:28 AM |
How do you remove silcone sealer?
I am working on a little engine project and I pulled the pan to inspect the internals. The pan and windage tray are just covered in gasket material and silicone RVT. How can you get that stuff off?
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| RedBarchetta |
11-28-2009 09:31 AM |
Goof-Off will work, but it just takes patience and a lot of rubbing. I knock off the big chunks with a razor scraper and then hit it with a rag dipped in lacquer thinner. Also a fine steel/brass brush will make quick work and it scuffs up the flanges just enough to allow the new gasket/sealant to bite.
-Dean
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| car4jim |
11-28-2009 09:55 AM |
Try Denatured Alcohol. You may need to soak the affected area. The silicone should lift off the surface.
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| Blittleton |
11-28-2009 11:40 AM |
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| Rick Parker |
11-28-2009 11:51 AM |
Given that you are working on the underside of the engine with the pan off; needless to say you do not want any small pieces left behind that could end up in the oiling system.
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| Blittleton |
11-28-2009 12:01 PM |
Don't for get to use the 3m tape and some plastic :rolleyes:
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Someone ( s ) please comment, heating with a hair dryer set on high would make the silicone and gasket sealer " easier " to remove/scrape off ? While the make up is entirely different, same approach as removing candle wax, which also can be frozen with ice cubes.
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| thudmaster |
11-28-2009 01:17 PM |
Hire the removal out.........it's much faster and less messy.....:)
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| bobcowan |
11-30-2009 10:01 AM |
I use a fine wire brush in a drill motor. Only takes a few seconds. Be sure to mask where needed, it can make a mess.
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| kitcarbp |
11-30-2009 10:30 AM |
ENGINE FLANGE
I would avoid using any type of abrasives on the machined surface of the engine block oil pan flange (iron or aluminum block, goes without saying alum is more sensitive to scratches), block flange has a machined surface with a specific surface finish by design that you dont want to damage or alter to keep a good seal. To mechanically scrape the silicone off this flange, try using plastic scrapers (like the body shops use for bondo or other uses) you can cut them to size if needed. Final prep with a solvent to clean the surface (I know this it tough upside down with oil dripping!) before the new sealant bead goes onto pan for re-install.
OIL PAN FLANGE
The pan in your gallery seems to be a custom one but with a stamped steel flange (upper portion), these are more forgiving as far as surface roughness but try to avoid abrasives here also and use plastic implement here too when removing old sealant.
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| trularin |
11-30-2009 12:41 PM |
Air wire brush.
GM has used RTV since 1974. Their shop instructions were to use an air powered wire brush. Makes a mess, but it all comes off.
:D
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| madmaxx |
11-30-2009 05:31 PM |
I agree a little pneumatic die grinder with a wire wheel and it is relaxing. As far as scratches left behing, the silicone you apply with the new gasket will easily fill the tiny voids and in addition help the silicone "bite" better. Now if I were working on the engine and internals exposed I would have to try a scraper and elbow grease but a component on the ground away from the car use the wire wheel.
Quote:
Originally Posted by trularin
(Post 1005390)
Air wire brush.
GM has used RTV since 1974. Their shop instructions were to use an air powered wire brush. Makes a mess, but it all comes off.
:D
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| Calbullet |
11-30-2009 05:41 PM |
I use a wire brush from Snap-on AC16C. fine bristle and made for cleaning aluminum. used it to clean silicone gunk from a CF blower once and didn't even mar the blower. fits in a 1/4" air die grinder
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