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Adjusting Slave Cylinder position
HI, this is my first post and I am really grateful for such a wealth of information in one location. I recently bought a wildwood pull style slave cylinder and have installed it and bled the hydraulic system. I have a centerforce racing clutch. The clutch used to start engaging immediately after letting up pressure which i think was cutting it too close. I was told by an experienced race car builder that the clutch should start engaging about 1.5 inches off the floor. My problem however is that after a few hundred miles, the pedal starts to engage again real close to the floor and eventually gets to the point where i cannot get the car into gear. So i disconnet the anchor bolt and adjust the rod by shortening the length to pick up the slack. This keeps requiring shortening the length, is there something i am missing? there is no way that the slave has moved to my knowlege. aprreciate the help
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I had the same problem..... but maybe not the same fix. With mine, the bracket that anchored the slave cylinder was bending. Wasn't real noticable until about the third time I had to readjust the thing. I just beefed up the bracket and things have been fine. Good Luck sorting this out
- Jim - |
thanks for the suggestion, come to think of it the anchor is a little thin, maybe 3/16 thick, I will beef it up with a thicker piece of steel, thanks again.
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Geeze.... must have bought the stuff from the same store:eek:
I used 3/16 by 1 inch steel for the anchor. After this bent, I straightened it out and backed it up with a piece of 1/8 by 1 inch 90 degree angle. Hasn't budged since. - Jim - |
CLUTH
i'M GOING TO USE A HYD EXTERNAL SLAVE; BUT HAVE'NT STARTED WORKING THE DETAILS.
nOTED: HEFTY BRAKET. wHAT TYPE SLAVE ARE YOU USING; PUSH OR PULL? DIA OF MASTER? GN |
I have a wildwood pull style hydraulic clutch slave cylinder and a centerforce racing clutch. One thing you will note is that the slave cylinder you buy has one ring nut on one side of the stem rod and the other end is simply threads, you will be better off getting that same ring nut for the other end, I used the one from my old slave so inquire about that when you order your slave. Go to wildwood's website.
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Niles,
I'm also using the Wilwood pull type slave cylinder. The spec on this thing is .750 dia cylinder & movement is just a tad over one inch. I use a .750 master cylinder. Got the whole thing from Summit. Frankym's suggestion of using hemi joints on both ends is a good idea. These cylinders have been known to develope leaks if it has to pull on an angle. When your fabricating your linkage, keep this in mind and try to have the thing pull in a straight line. And as you've read above, make up a good sturdy bracket:JEKYLHYDE :LOL: - Jim - |
the straight line this is really important, mine was already positioned so i never thought about it but that makes perfect sense, you must pull 100% parallel to the movement of the clutch so as to maximize the travel of the slave with the pedal, great add!
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