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I needed to re evaluate the clutch throw set up as my old clutch was making becoming harder to get into 3rd gear . The throw needs to be increased .
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Did Chuck replace just the master with a 7/8 bore Tilden ?
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Here is the page that Chuck talks about removing his PP weights: http://www.chuckbrandt.com/living.htm
Regarding the aluminum spacer for proper slave alignment, I have it on my iron block FE, along with the 7/8" Tilton Master, instead of the BMW master. The manual says "Most clutch pressure plates won't require the spacer shown below. Some, however, have tall fingers that move the fork connection forward. The spacer moves the slave assembly forward and inward, correcting the alignment. If the alignment is still off, the corner of the aluminum block can be ground so that the slave bracket can be rotated slightly." On whether or not you remove the weights or not, I think more people remove them than keep them (I opted for removal). |
As the proud owner of an ERA with pretty much the same rear end I also would like to know what is going on since this is your second time around. This time you said it was your fault, can you enlighten me.
Coming from 60's era's muscle cars I am hesitant to even smoke the tires with what this rear for fear of what happened to you. The width of the tires the, the grabbyness %/ of the tires and what appears to be a weaker set up over the solid rear axle. Nice drag picture in your box. |
I dont think you will hurt your car providing you don't just drop your clutch. keep your r's up and don't let it get wheel hop .
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Hay Patrickt , do you have a part # for that tilden ?
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http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d..._and_slave.jpg |
Thanks , ordered it !
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Will this increase the throw ?
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Center force full of crap
John Martin. That clutch company is full of CRAP. They cost me a total of 6 grand to find out about the sliding weights and how they work. Even their own tech guys are STUPID. The weights load the diapham around 2,800 rpms and I couldn't shift my car. It did not depend on from what gear to what gear I was going. Under this rpm, no problem. Brought a second trans and still had the same problem. Short verse, the whole story is on an old thread. The Gold clutch is 30% stronger holding strength than a stock one and has a heavier duty hub to absorb drivetrain shock. You don't need the weights. I am still running the same pressure plate 14 years, but have installed a new disc a couple of years ago. I will goto a twin disc setup with new motor from Mcloed. ERA removes the weights on alot of there cars they assembly. IMO personally with 482 cubes the clutch is a little weak. IF you roll on and off the throttle I have no problem. Hammering the car, it slips a little. If you want to do burnt outs, buy a set of cheap hard tires for the back of the car. You can add a washer tank, hoses, and nozzles and make an instant water box any where you want. Having wet tires will also do alot less damage to the drivetrain when trying to start spinning the tires. Rick L.
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Snakebite , yes I have front and rear sway bars .
Rick , I' m looking to do a hard launch with out snapping axles .Your comments seem to depict me as a lunatic . |
The Centerforce went back to summit . My flywheel was drilled for a long style only .
Still no axles . |
Got My axles yesterday , only took seven weeks :CRY: I got the subframe back together :D
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Got it back together , test / break in clutch , temper the ring and pinion , lube the Lsd tomorrow ! looking forward to the new gear ratio , and clutch . I changed the brake and clutch fluid. adjusted all mounts , greased everything , checked everything . I changed the trailing arm length and made them the same from back frame , never thought to check it like that before . It may have contributed to some hop .
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Changed the trailing arms back to it's original state , caused tork steer under hard acceleration .Gear ratio is a nice change for the street !
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