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Webbers: Need some info?
I am interested in changing to webbers this winter on my 289.
Couple of questions: 1. What is the height of the system including intake and Webbers? I am now running a Weiand Stealth 8020 intake with a Holley 650 DP, and K&N Filter Charger. It took me three setups to clear the hood, so total height is a concern. 2. What is the cost? 3. Is it a fairly easy setup to convert to? 4. Any concerns other than setting all of the carbs up in sync? 5. I forgot my last question??? Oh well, this should do for now. I hear that they sound beautiful, although I've never personlly heard them myself. Ren Man |
I will get some of those measurements for you. Some of the manifolds have longer runners so one has to watch that. Also, depending on the manufacturer, some of the Weber set ups are too tall. I know that you have cut the velo stacks on an ERA if you use a 351W, while on a Unique, they fit OK.
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Man,
Height: We didn't have to cut the stacks - just use the shorter ones that are available. Jeez - I don't remember whether that engine was a 302 or 351... Your engine may not be at the same height as ours. Cost: If you can find a set, typically $2000-$3500 for the carbs and manifold. But that's just the beginning. Easy? Depends on how handy you are. :rolleyes: It is likely the carbs will have to be rejetted. If you pay someone to do it, it will cost roughly $1500. If you do it yourself without too many screw-ups, several hundred $ in jets and lots of patience. Synchronizing the carbs? The least of your problems if you have the right tool and some knowledge of the process. You will potentially get about 5-10% horsepower increase - but only if it's done right. And sometimes that ideal point is illusive. |
the disatance from the bottom of my manifold (the portion that rests on the block on either end) to the top of the velocity stacks is 10 1/2". my stacks are 2 1/4".
one thing to keep in mind, using shorter stacks might require cutting the auxilliary venturi tube. as it is on mine, the stacks barely clear the tubes. i can't offer anything on your other questions - i'm not there yet myself and the other respondents know much more than i do about them.......... mike |
10.5 inches is what I come up with, too. Good sets with manifold runs around $3,500 to $4,000. If you are lucky you can get them cheaper, but a lot of people are on the prowl for the IDAs and it is tough to get them much cheaper.
Torque is the major point with them. 20% through the range is pretty common. It made my 289 run like a 351W cammer. Pretty impressive. Jetting will run around $500. If you already have F7 etubes then the cost will be less. They run around $20 a piece. The jets and air correctors are $3-$5. Use Pierce or Fast Freddy's for your parts. Get the floats adjusted correctly. For $10.00 and a nice note, Enzo will probably do them for you. Getting the jetting right is not hard. Work around the choke size (37mm is preferred) and the richer F7 etube. As Bob said, adjustment is pretty easy as long as you know the procedure. Getting the correct linkage set up is pretty important. Often times it already comes with the carbs. Before you buy them, check the throttle shafts for bend or any cracks under the carb base. The body is everything so that must be checked out. Everything else is pretty replaceable with little cost. Very simple carb--just make sure all passages are clean. The rebuild is real simple. |
Cal,
I looked at the Finish Line book and it states that the Weber's are $1250 each....Meaning I need Four (4) of these, correct? Do they usually come with an intake or it that an additional charge? I know I need to talk to Enzo about this as well... Dave |
You Already have a mean motor!
Ren,
Are you kiddung me. With that awesome motor you have now your going with webbers? I know the wife must really love you man!:D When is the big day! Gregg H.............. |
Just curious on the Weber's. They look sooooooo cool !!!
I'm considering it for a winter project. Well, I just got a message from David Kee and he confirms that the throwout bearing is traveling too far. I just need to put a stop through the firewall for the clutch pedal, plug in the interior and I'm on the road !!!! Got my 1966 plates approved by Tx. DOT on Friday... tags should be here in a week or so. Ren Man |
$1,250 is pretty rich and it is probably without a manifold. Give me an email, as I have a set that are still new "in the box" with a new manifold if you are interested. I can jet them for you, floats are already calibrated, F7 etubes are installed, and the correct street chokes are present. I also have new linkage from Inglese to go with the set.
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Ren Man - If you have a height problem with the IDA's you could always go for the IDF's which I believe have shorter throttle bodies, they are also substantialy cheaper. I managed to pick up a new set and an unused Ingles intake and linkage for $1900.
I'm still waiting delivery of the fourth carb! Andy |
With the standard stacks the IDFs are about 7/8 inch shorter than the IDA. The IDA also has a more masculine look, being somewhat larger (body of carb) than the IDF. Unless, they start making the IDA again, the investment potential--if purchased reasonably--has to be on the side of the IDA.
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48 IDAs sitting atop a 289. Notice the massive size relative to the IDF. The valve covers give you some perspective as to the size of the carbs.
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