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Bolt on performance enhancers
Well, since I've decided not to sell - I'm curious as to what kind of bolt on performance enhancing items I can put on my engine to get a few more horse out of it?
Here are the specs on the engine today: The Engine – By Don Scott, Minnesota Classic Motorsports 1969 351 Windsor completely rebuilt, balanced and ported. Complete from air cleaner to pan, includes aluminum Manifold, aluminum valve covers, aluminum pulleys, new edelbrock carb, Electronic distributor, chrome coil, new water pump, alternator, starter, 9mm Ford wires, new high performance pistons, cam, lifters, chrome moly Rings, hyperutetic pistons, double roller timing chain, pushrods, heads Are pocket ported, 3 angle valve job, hardened seats, high rev springs, chrome oil pan, SVO dipstick, Chrome alternator Bracket, chrome wire looms, tin motor plate, ARP 12 point stainless bolts, Chrome coil bracket, throttle cable and bracket. Holley 4di FUEL INJECTION for awesome starts and consistent power – computer programmable! |
Miami--
Glad you decided to keep your ride. I would certainly lose the SVO dipstick--they are known power sinks. Instead, go with the J-C Whitney teflon coated "Super- Dip"; this should be good for at least 7 h.p. at idle. Also, I think you are missing a bet in not replacing the chrome alternator bracket--brite stuff really slows things down. Hope this helps. :3DSMILE: Rick |
dipstick for 7 hp? Your kidding, right? Brite stuff slows things down? Damn - I should be sorry for the chrome alternator I just had put in.
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What compression ratio??? If 9:1 or less, go with nitrous (150 hp 4 stage adjustable power shot) is best bang for the buck---used wisely! If you hit the "go" button regularly you'll be "going" to the motor shop very soon! A blower works really well too--I have a Paxton on my 66 Mustang, and it really moves, but does put a lot of strain on the motor.
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MC,
you may change the rocker arm ratio if it is possible with that motor - but watch out for coil bind at the valve springs, or the valves hitting the pistons (+ 20 hp). You may reprogram your computer advancing your ignition curve for higher octane fuel (+ 15 to 25 hp). Feed the intake system with cold air. That itself may present you 10 % Hp, depending on you current setup. Nascar vehicles used to cost USD 20 000 for the car, USD 20 000 for the engine, USD 20 000 to set up the air intake system ... Add Turbocharger(s) with Intercooler, if the engine will hold together (+ 300 hp). Or a belt driven supercharger. How about the header / exhaust system (+ 15 hp)? Or an underdriven water pump (+ 5 hp)? Get all-out Chevy aluminum BB with 500 + cui with 950 hp @ 6900 rpm ... All hp-values listed are just estimated numbers! Rick, the dip-stick adds 7.432 hp (per DIN 70 020, Nov. 1976) @ 752.5 rpm. We tested that as well. Although, it was the candy apple red version. ;) Dom |
Miami,
Without the exact part information and specs this question cannot be answered. As a general rule Fords need more flow. Bolting on better flowing heads always helps, as long as the heads match well with the cam. fg |
Miami,
Before you do anything I would suggest you get thee to a dyno to establish a starting point. Changes can have negative effects also. If you make changes you will never know if you've improved or not. Roscoe |
an answer for you....
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kalecoauto.com |
Miami,
Given what you have, I think the most economically significant change in power you could see would come from changing your cam. Adding a hydraulic roller cam and roller lifters is relatively simple, and the horsepower gains are pretty impressive. Those folks with Desktop Dyno can tell you. Comp Cams makes a retrofit part for the 351W that allows you to use a roller cam in the older blocks. Brad |
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