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clutch or trans problem
I am having the engine, 392 crate and tko trans, installed now.
We started it up and set the timing. So far so good. He already bled the clutch, or so he thought. The pedal throw was real short, maybe 2" tops, and felt very mushy. It was not anything like the ones I drove before. Then we tried getting in gear, no can do. I did not force it. We turned it off and rotated the tires and got it to slip into gear. We checked the diffential oil, no problems there. We turned it on again, still no getting it into gear. Suggestions? Slave cylinder bad... Clutch problem... Trans problem... Help, can barely control myself, soooo close now. |
Gravity bleed the clutch if you have the patience--also, is your t/o bearing hydraulic??They can make the bleeding process very aggravating. If you're SURE that you have all the air out of the system, I had a similar problem and it turned out to be a defective pressure plate (!!??!!) from Centerforce--I swapped it and PRESTO no more problem. I ran it down by watching the t/o bearing engage the presure plate while the car was on a lift--it moved it well, but there was no resistance and no shift! This has got to be a long shot--it's the only one I have ever seen in 20 years of shop work. Have you tried to reverse bleed the system--with vacuum @ the bleed port to suck fluid thru--we use a vacuula brand machine @ work, and it's awesome.
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check your clearances
If using an external slave cylinder with a fork and conventional TO bearing, the adjustment of the ball stud which the fork pivots on is CRITICAL. The TO bearing should be approx .100" of the diaphram with the slave cylinder's pushrod retracted fully. If it's an internal hydraulic TO bearing, that needs to be adjusted so that in the retracted (compressed) state, there is .080 to .120" clearance between it and the diaphram. If all clearances check out, you just need to keep bleeding the air out. Also, is your clutch master cylinder volume adequate to achieve the travel needed at the clutch.
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Try this
flat floor and a helper.
car in second gear...push in clutch...roll car forward...slowly let out clutch pedal to find engagement positon. Note this position relative to pedal travel. Now do the disengagement....note this dimension. Both shud be about midpoint in the pedal travel. If u r using a diafragm pressure plate......use a pedal stop so you dont overtravel the pedal and warp the diafragm. Make sure you tightened pressure plate in a x pattern one bolt turn at a time for even pull down on the pressure plate. It sounds like you have a bleeding issue. Make sure no lines from master to slave (or annular if thats wht u use) run uphill. You will have an air pocket if u do. Good luck. |
how long is your adjusting rod that goes into clutch fork under car it should bo 5 1/2 inches long 9/16 thickness.The throw needs to be out more.:)
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to bleed the system you need to suck the fliud through the lines for the lines have to many bends to flow through freely.:)
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The slave cylinder that came with install kit was defective. With new slate cylinder it worked perfectly. Thanx for the advice everyone!:D
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