Club Cobra - Solid Motor Mounts?

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i started not to respond to this old problem with any performance car of this layout only to watch the answers evolve back to the Shelby American method of 1964, bolts thru the mounts. guy's remember the pics of the R-model GT350 witha chain strap on the left front head, well they had bolts thru the mounts that you couldn't see. before my 350R was stolen the chain was still there along with the bolt thru the mount.

Jack21
Thanks for the clarification on the mounts. We do use slightly different adapters on our frame for the 302 and 351w engines but I wasn't quite sure if the mounts on the block were the same. (I grew up with the bowties so I'm still a little new to this blue oval stuff:D )
P.S. Don't tell the boss but I have more fun talking with you guys in here than the day to day business but I have to do that sometimes too:(
-Dana :) :) :)

Thank you all for the info and assistance. My mount should be ok once the suspension is adjusted.
Special thanks to Dana and all the folks at Shell Valley who have been great.
Howard

movin' around motor mounts

Everything said so-far is pretty much true. I used to snap rubber motor mounts every other week on my own car. I drilled them and put a bolt and two fender washers thru them (had to shave down the bolt head and other side too to clear the block). that helped. Never bought urethane, but the rubber was breaking not just flexing. Used solid moroso's for four years seemed great, but everything started to rattle eventually.

The best way to prevent motor torque-over is to install an aluminum flywheel. The 300 lb/ft cobras with steel flywheels often had chewed-up sidepipe exit holes. The 530 lb/ft cobras with alum. flywheels didn't. The lower rotational inertia of the flywheel, the less it resists being turned, thus your motor doesn't torque over onder hard throttle, or downshifts. The 560 lb/ft cobras do kiss the exit on a SPF, with rubber mounts and an alum. fly. Urethanes, or a solid on the drivers side, and rubber on the other may cure, didn't try.

The explanation was based on the results, not conjecture.

I picked up a set of Balkamp motor mounts (Anchor equivalent 2287) at the local NAPA store and what do you know, they have bolts installed through the rubber portion of the motor mount. Looks like one of the manufacturers has been working on a similar problem. I believe that these are intended for 302s even though I'm using them on a 351. The original 351 mounts wouldn't fit the piece that's welded onto the frame. Anyway, should help the torque-over problem without having to modify the mounts.
h dog

Solid mounts or a rod, chain etc. not only allows a ton of vibration to be sent through the car but could put on due stress on the frame under burn out or heavy acceleration.

A trick many guys are using is a plastic coded cable with the stock motor mounts. Unlike a rod or chain it will hold the engine but flex just enough to eliminate the vibration! I have one on my 514 and it works great..........Local ACE Hardware store for the cable and fittings. Mount to the head and to the frame of drivers side of the engine.