jag oil leak
 

A few days after filling my rear end with the the requisite fluids[I don't like the sound of that] I noticed a small pool of oil under the diff. It is coming from the pinion oil seal I believe. I ordered repair parts from CWI but wonder if I am opening a can of worms. Has anyone done this and do I need special tools to remove the flange or fit the oil seal assembly? Do I torque the pinion nut to 120# or just realine everything the way it came off? This is a 67XKE if that matters. Someday I may finish this car. thanks:confused:

Clyde,

See this page for hints. It you have an original leather seal, you might want to run the car a bit before any major surgery. The leather will swell with use.

If you do decide to replace the seal, you can skip most of the special stuff of removing and replacing the flange. Just mark the shaft and the nut, and count the number of turns of the nut. Then return everything to it's original position.

Oil leak????
 

Clyde,
It was made in England, it's supposed to leak.
Go buy a new drip pan.
McCranky;)

Re: Oil leak????
 

On that very same note:

"No honey, it's not leaking any oil, just marking it's territory".


Bill S.

Bob, thanks for the info. It doesn't look too hard to change and now is as good a time as any. Not much confidence in old seals learning new tricks.

Bob, thanks for the info. It doesn't look too hard to change and now is as good a time as any. Not much confidence in old seals learning new tricks. Cranky- if leaking makes you British I'm on my way to a new passport. Mr. Mustang-my long suffering wife may go off the deep end if I tell her the car is also going to be marking it's territory!

HI Slide. Bobs pinion bearing pre load is too high. with a set of new bearings the max inch lbs. is 22in lbs. With used bearing the max preload should be 8-12 in lbs on the pinion alone and the carrier unit installed should be no more than 18 in lbs for a dana 44 center section. Also check the pinion flange for a groove. If no groove clean it good with steel wool. Put grease on the seal before you reassembly the flange unit. CWI has a kit to update the old design that work great. Take your time good luck Rick Lake P.S. when installing new bearings on the pinion in the case you crush the collar between the two bearing with 120 - 130 lbs to pre set the pinion bearing than back off and reset the flange nut to the drag load. It will spin easy in your hand, with lite drag.

I replaced mine last summer with an original leather jag seal .I t took a while to soakup an absolutley seal.Later I explored a modern replacement at the local bearing supplier .I found it was available but not in stock.Since the new finally stoped leaking I forgot about it.
The trick when installing a new seal is to seal the( Permatex type 2) seal to the housing and keep the sealant off the actual sealing edge. I had a service manager ,twenty years ago ,who attended a show in Vegas where ChicagoRawHide showed that a large percentage of newly installed seal leak out side the seal. It was demonstrated by installing and removing and showing the surfaces around the outside that didn't make contact with the housing. But mind you that the actual seal gets lube and not sealant.I was also told that two thing will eat a seal in a hartbeat , an Eskimo the other permatexThe actuall locating of
The locating the replacement seal was another story.After hours and trips and several tries I went to European motors with old seal in hand. After an hour with the parts guy and his computer .The parts guy went out to the shop and talked to an older mechanic who turned to his box opened a drawer and produced the correct seal.They had to guess at a price. after wards my uncle took the old seal to the bearing supplier after a few tries the numbers actually ment something and a source was found but I didn't follow through.

Its British so it's supposed to leak eh. So who are the real fools . Those that design, sell and use such rubbish or those that buy it and complain for years after . But there again the home built product is so boring and reliable who wants that. What would we do in our workshops with nothing to fix. In my considerable experience in vehicle repair half the cause of the problems with parts are operator error or lack of expertise in repair and maintenance. Just blame the manufacturer its a face saving cop out . Jonny.

Rick and Mike, thankyou for the additional input. I am not going to use a new leather seal. C.W.I. sent one that looks very similar to a main front crank seal and a large metal washer. I will take my time and try to set everything up to match the current set-up. I can only hope it is correct. I don't want to repace any bearings!