Harland Sharpe rockers
 

Well, after waiting for 6 weeks to get a set of Lunati roller rockers (something about changing suppliers) for the 393, I'm ready to give up. Has anyone used any of the Harland Sharpe roller rockers and what do you think of them compared to others?
Thanks,
h dog

HARLAND SHARP AND DOVE ARE THE MANUFACTURERS FOR MOST OF THE CAM COMPANIES, I HAVE USED THEM ALL MY LIFE AND NEVER HAD ANY FAILURES. I BUILD ENGINES FOR A LIVING AND AM A WHOLESALER OF ENGINE PART AND DOUG HERBERT IS CHEAPEST PLACE I HAVE FOUND TO GET THEM.

I used Harland Sharp and Smith Brothers custom made pushrods on AFR heads.


http://www.priveye.com/cobra/Rocker.jpg

Roscoe

I use Sharp rockers on all my motors and customer motors as well--never a problem. Very high quality and excellent service. I bought my last stock order thru Ford Power Parts.

I have the Harland Sharpe units on my 427FE/484 stroker. Replaced a set of Dove aluminum rockers which failed after only 1,000 miles. The Harland Sharpe units have bronze bushings which the Dove FE rockers lacked. No problem with the H-S units after about 3,000 miles.

Thanks for all the replies guys. Went down to order the Harland Sharpes today and found out the Lunatis are on the way. I guess they must have gotten their new supplier squared away. Hope I'm not testing out the first batch of a new supplier.....I wouldn't like that. :( Oh well! On with the engine build! :3DSMILE:
h dog

By the way Roscoe, thanks for the photo. Looking real good....but not as good as your "cobra art" on another thread. :D :D :D :D

FWIW -- the Harland Sharps are supposed to be great quality rockers, but I've heard of problems with them and TFS heads. Also heard that TFS says not to run these with their heads. Don't have more specifics, sorry.

Harlan Sharpe rockers
 

My Ford mechanic told me to stay away from H S rockers and I read somewhere that roller rockers had to be replaced after 20 to 30,000 miles of street use. Is this true????

Machinist that built my engine strongly recommended against aluminum rocker arms on a street engine unless they were replaced every couple of years. Steered me to a set of Comp Cams Pro-Magnum steel roller rockers. Don't need stainless, they won't rust bathed in oil, just the chromemoly ones. ~$250/set (Summit). Comp Cams even recommends rebuilding the arms every 50 thou or so with new bearings and rollers, but the arms will never bend, break, or wear out.

Using the Pro-Magnums on TFS heads, no problems so far. TFS's are unique in getting the roller tip centered on the valve tip needs to be done carefully, and adjusted by moving the guideplate around to get it right. Just dropping them in won't align them properly.

problems, problems, problems
 

Wonder why a mechanic would recommend against aluminum rockers? Metal fatigue? There probably isn't that much difference between steel and aluminum performance wise on the street. If you're only going to rev 6-6,500 you probably can't tell the difference.
But on another matter, ever try to deal with Lunati? Cam and rollers came in ok, no problem. But the springs.....first I ordered the springs, retainers, etc. from Lunati so everything in the valvetrain would match. Tried the springs and they were the beehive design. Didn't fit, keepers and locks didn't fit-took it all back. Lunati says they don't make beehive springs. My dealer double checks the part nos.-Crane springs! What the heck are Crane springs doing in a Lunati box? Send the whole mess back. This time I got the correct springs but no cups and not enough locks. Reorder again. Oh, forgot to get shims. Rocker arms come in and there are no lock nuts in the kit. Doesn't everyone send locknuts with their rockers? Not Lunati-reorder again. Going on 6 weeks now! By the way, my dealer says they do most of their business with Comp. Cams. I can't imagine why?
Hope the rest of this build goes better than the valve springs.
:CRY:
h dog

Performance wise, there is no difference. It's a reliability over time issue. The caveat being, if you use aluminum on the street, be prepared to replace them every year or two. There is a lot of stress on these things, particularly with roller cams. Even the steel ones need rebuilding periodically. Another tip I picked up was putting an oil retentive coating on valvesprings, particularly when using roller cams. These springs get hot, and heat weakens them over time. Same coating used on piston skirts. Makes 'em run cooler, and last longer. Sent the springs to Airborne Coatings. We'll see if they ever need replacing.

Lunati? No, I can't say I've had the honor. Have always used Crane, and most recently Comp Cams. Pushrods in their roller kit were too short for TFS heads. They swapped them out OK, and advised next time custom order the kit. Different heads need different length pushrods. Some other guys I know have used Crower with good results. Have used Rhoads variable duration lifters, and they work too. Ought to call them and see if they're making hydraulic rollers now. They bleed down at low RPM, and raise the idle vacuum. Pump up at around 3000 and give full duration. Cure for guys running 234/244 cams and not enough vacuum to operate the power brakes.

Woof! You anywhere near Morehead City? Gotta go down there next month.

Jack21,
Woof! No, I'm not very close to Morehead City. May head that way when I retire though. Randleman is right in the middle of the state, just South of Greensboro. I'm about 2 1/2 hours from Morehead depending on Raleigh-Durham traffic.
Still hoping to get the clearance between the valves and pistons checked this week....if I can get my parts.
h dog