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Hood rivit spacing
Hey Guys
Any one know the spacing measurments for hood rivits on outer lower edge of the hood. Thanks guys:) |
...don't want to steal Evan's thunder
1 Attachment(s)
I have this in my files, but (I apologize) I don't know the source of it.
(Evan? is this right?) |
Rivets
That's the pattern I'm using and it came from Roscoe. He made a great suggestion; Instead of using "Pop" rivets (which can mess up glass) he used S.S. 6/32 "Button" head screws. They look just like rivets once installed and as they are treaded in you don't have to worry about chipping the glass.
Bish |
This is very close to the pattern I used, but I did use ss rivets. Have never had a problem with the glass--just remember that when drilling the hole for the rivet, use a very sharp bit at high speed and drill the hole slightly oversize. For example, use a bit about 1/32 to 1/16th larger than the rivet size. If you can get to the rear of the rivet, and it will be hidden, it helps to use a stress washer as well--which is a small ss washer that goes on the underside to spread the load out a little.
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Did The SC's and the Street cars and Comp Cars all have the Rivets? Does anybody know the history?
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....I believe that:
Comp and S/C cars had the rivets....Street cars did not.
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Be careful using Stainless Steel rivets rather than aluminum.
There is very little surgical grade stainless out there. I know they are not supposed to rust, if they are ss. Think again! Stick with aluminum over SS rivets. The rivets around the scoop are functional, and the rivets around the edges of the hood are just stuck in there for looks. You can remove them with your finger, or stick something in the whole to remove them. It makes it easier to wax, without wax build up around them. TURK |
The best reason to use aluminum rivets:
They don't chip the paint when you pop 'em. That means you use aluminum rivets with aluminum mandrels! |
NO!
Mine was the best reason! TURK |
I liked them both!
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