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Heat Insulation Material
What kind of insulation should I use to insulate the footboxes, firewall, floors, and trans hump in my car? Where can I buy it and can I use it inside under the carpet? Maybe something I can glue down. I want something to cut down heat and noise (Although the sidepipes take care of most of the noise!) Should I wrap the headers also? I need suggestions. Later, David Shelton.
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Reheat insulatioon
I have had good luck with the Thermotec insulation. I have it on my firewall and around the brake lines. You can also get it for all lines and headers. I have no heat at all in my foot box and yes it can also be used under the carpet and will cut down noise but there is cheaper insulation for that which works as well. As for wrapping the headers they make that also and it will keep the under hood temperature down quite a bit and you may even pick up three or four horsepower.
Ron61 |
I used Fireplace surround insulation from Lowe's. 15 bucks a roll and 2 rolls did both footboxes, which were then panelled in aluminum.
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Start at the source if it isn't too much of a pain...I have heard claims that "jet hot" coating and all the other types in the same vein will reduce cockpit heat and underhood by 200 degrees....
The nascar boys swear by it and only do it to make thier long rides more bearable. Wrapping headers tends to promote rust and premature rot. Then after this, go for the thermal barriers as suggested. A friend of mine used to say he had a buddy who couldn't stand his car as he would cook from the waste down and freeze from the waste up all at once. I have used the aluminized thermalsleeve (on the brake feeds to the masters from the remotes). Comes in 3 foot lengths. For protecting wires, hoses and lines from heat. I may also weld on a sheet metal small heat shield on the drivers side header at the same locale. I only plan on using a good carpet underlay when it comes time to carpet. Tim |
Whaler,
It's really hard to believe that JetHot or any ceramic coating will reduce under-hood temperatures by 200 degrees. Maybe 20 to 50 degrees but not 200. My own personal experience is as follows; my headers were originally wrapped and in general I wouldn't overheat unless my coolant was low (another story). I unwrapped the headers because I didn't want to rust them out and had them JetHot coated. Now my hood temp is higher. I can idle all day with the hood open but 10 minutes with the hood closed and I'm spewing coolant out the overflow. It's only my experience but I don't think JetHot was a thermal improvement over wrapping. I does look much nicer though. Jack |
Hi Jack
I am about to get my headers and pipes done in the next 2 weeks. The man doing them does not use "jet hot" but another product line. His claim was made to me on the phone while we talked about the product. He also mentions that the 200 degrees was knocked off or a harley drag bike and I think was measured with an IR thermal gun. He also claimed the heat is contained more within the header. Just like the story about painting headers white vs. black I agree about your comments on appearances...As for the overheating..who knows? Maybe the ultimate is the wrap We all know that bare headers will act like heating tubes in a heat exchanger as the air is passed over them, that air will get hotter. Open the hood or close the hood all contributes to contained hotter air Too bad the comparison you use or had wasn't between painted headers or bare and then ceramic coat. You may be right about wrap...a simple test is too grab either one....whichever method burns you the worst is likely the least desired for insulative thermal barrier. Tim |
I have already coated my headers and sidepipes with Tech Line "Cermakrome" and they claim a reduction in underhood temp and surface temp. They seem to get awfully hot to me! I may wrap them anyway. It seems that both should be best. (If some is good, more is better, and too much should be just right!) Later, David Shelton.
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just my opinion...
Coming form a Scottish background, I priced different footbox insulations and my decision was....water heater blanket from Home Depot. Silver in appearance, the material was a breeze to install and looks quite nice, especially at $19.99 a package.
My preference is to wrap my headers, I feel it gives a nostalgic look to these cars you often don't see. Now if I can just get some period correct California license plates........HMMMMMM. |
JC Whitney
I used what turned out to be a great product from JC Whitney. It is sold in what I think was 4' x 6' rolls at $19 roll on sale. It is foil backed and about 3/8" thick. Depending on how much you want you can cover the whole cockpit with 2 or 3 rolls. They also sell the spray cans of contact cement to glue it down and aluminum tape to cover seams but they can be much cheaper at places like Home Depot. The quality was quite good. It is very dense and glues down quite well. I heard many recommendations before buying it. In addition to the insulating benefits it actually gives the car a more solid feel on the road.
p.s. I beleive JCW has a web site. -Matt |
Matt
It may be a dumb question but which side down and I assume thats the glued side as well. If the whole cockpit is done, how do you keep carpet and underlay down as well? My interior is still in the tin can mode so thats why I ask...its to be done after paint. Helps for my planning. Underlay works the same way in noise deadening and giving the car a more solid feel. Like a room without furniture the car feels and sounds wierd. Doorpanels etc all help Tim |
Tim,
I installed all of it with the foil side in. In other words the carpet would actually be glued against the foil. As I recall the instructions that came with the material did say that for certain areas where there may be extreme heat the foil side should be towards the heat. Possibly in a footbox that might run close to a header or something. I didn't have this concern so installed it all foil side out. I used the spray on contact cement that JCW sold with the insulation to glue the insulation to the cockpit first. I beleive it called for spraying the glue on only one surface and apply while still wet for a more permanent bond. I beleive I sprayed it on the padding side of the insulation then applied it. It really held well even on the top underside of the footbox. I then used 3M's General Trim Adhesive to glue the carpet to the foil. It called for spraying both mating surfaces. Hope that helps. -Matt |
I bought a 2'x20' roll from Lowes for $19.95.:D
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We have got a material that is a ceramic paper that is 1/8" thick that can be glued to or bonded in the fiberglass. I put it on an oven element and held my hand 1/2" over the 1300f element. It is not cheap, but it really works. There are some things you need to know about coatings. The surface temp IS reduced over 200f, get a infrared thermometer and try it yourself. The radiated heat is greatly reduced with coatings. The reason black is a better insulator is because the bright coatings all have aluminum in them and aluminum radiates heat better than the black pigments. Also,reguarding header wraps,unlees you like to buy headers, dont't use them. Talk with any header mfg. and they will tell you that it will void the warranty! This is not because they want to coat your headers, but it is because the extreme heat retention will burn the carbon out of your headers and eventually blow a hole in them! When you take the wrap off the header, in addition to being rusty, after you blast them they will look like dried mud and they are ruined. IMCA mods, "dirt cars" will not make 1/2 season with wrap but will run over 3 seasons with coated headers. Pat
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Header wraps...
My manufacturer recommended, and is going to install, header wrap (sad, because it's all polished SS):(
It channels some of the heat OUT the pipes, instead of letting much of it RADIATE into your motor compartment. One really great benefit is cooler intake air. Try www.jegs.com for wrap, and lots of other hot (pun intended) goodies :MECOOL: |
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