elec fan install
 

HI GUYS THANKS FOR HELP ON TRANNY. GOT IT SQU. AWAY. ALSO DECIEDED TO TAKE YOUR ADVISE AND WILL LEAVE THE RAD. UNPAINTED. NEW PROBLEM JUST GOT FAN NO INSTALL PAPERS. IT HAS 4 METAL BRAKETS I ASUME THEY ATTACH TO THE RAD. BUT WHERE IAM AFRAID TO PUT SHEET METAL SCREWES IN TO THE ALUM RAD. PLEASE HELP THANKS ---DCAPO

Whoooaa, . . . . . Don't put no sheet metal screws into the radiator!!!! Wait for DV to jump in here. He knows this stuff.

DO NOT SCREW ANYTHING INTO THE ALUMINUM RADIAOR!!!!!

:eek: Ed

DV, this is the thread
 

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uhhh, "D"

Ed's right. Do NOT screw anything into the radiator. Tell me the model of the fan you are using.

If you have a fan with two large 90 degree metal brackets, you will have to come up with two "legs" that you can mount 90 degrees to and on the frame, then mount the brackets to these.

You want to keep the fan as tight as possible to the radiator.

You can go to Jegs, or Summitt and purchase an install kit: I'm not wild over them, but they do work. Cost is abut $9.00, includes 4 plastic straps, which sort of resembles wire ties, with a button head. You simply push these through the radiator, very carefully, then through the mounting holes of the fan shroud, then push on the supplied "buttons". Two things, make sure they are as tight as possible, and make sure you have it where you want it the first time. These are one way only! (Note: these have been known to move around after time, and with the weight of the fan on them, have actually damaged the radiators.)


Hope this helps.
DV
300 Cobras is NOT enough, and by golly we are going to make it!

dcapo, Here is how I install them. I'm assuming you have the 16"Spal fan from Classic. On the top and bottom of the radiator there is a small aluminum channel, I run all four straps to this channel, drill 4 small holes to accept a stainless 10-32 screw and nut. Make sure you mount the fan low on the radiator for hood hinge clearance. Please note this fan will require a relay setup to power the fan. The Classic harness was not designed to handle the load. I have a wiring diagram for the relay if you need it. I've been mounting them this way for years with no problems. DV is right about the straps, they will work but over time they can cut into the core.
Don

dscott-- your way of attaching the fan is great! it is soild and looks like a factory install. now if i could trouble you for napa parts # for rubber hoses for my griffin rad to my 351w. ill have something to do this weekend. thanks again DCAPO

dcapo, For the upper I use 2 hoses both Napa part# 7096. You will need to trim them a little to fit the in-line filler. For the lower I buy a 1 3/4" hose with a 90 degree bend in it. Sorry I don't have a part number. I make a tube in a kind of an S shape to go between the rad and water pump and use a small straight piece of the 1 3/4" hose from the tube to the rad. The other end I use the 90 degree bend to the water pump and the tube. The easiest way to make the tube is use a piece of wire and fashion the bends from one side of the car to the other, take the bent wire to an exhaust shop and have them bend a piece of 1 1/2" exhaust pipe to match the wire, have them flare the ends a little so the hoses won't slide off after clamping. The other thing I do for the lower if you don't want to try the tune is buy a piece of cool flex hose the proper length. I hope this isn't to confusing.
Don

DSCOTT THANKS FOR THE HEPL THINK I WILL USE COOL FLEX FOR BOTH TOP AND BOTTOM SEEMS EASIER. ANY PROBLEM WITH THIS ANY WORDS OF WISDOM? DCAPO

dcapo, If you buy the 48" package and a few extra ends that will be enough to cover everything. Measure good because you won't have much to spare. Makes for a nice looking system. The radiator and filler take 1 1/2" and the water pump is 1 3/4". They usually supply the proper spacers to allow for different sizes.
Don

Thought a few extra tips might help from my own Griffin install. Like you, I was extremely reluctant to put any sheet metal screws into my expensive radiator, push any plastic straps through it, or use insufficient cushioning that would allow it to contact the frame, or the fan.

Went to the hardware store and got some lengths of steel wall shelf attachment chanel. (The steel has a round "U" shape on the wall side) The part that goes against the wall. Cut them in short lengths, 4 pcs, rad to rad frame, and 4 pcs, fan mounting bracket to rad. Used Devcon epoxy to hold the pieces to the rad. (PC7, or PC11. Installed inner fender liners, fuel cap frenching, and other hi strength jobs with this stuff too.)

Bottom rad support had a front to rear piece of wall bracket supporting the rad at the rubber cushon forming the lower mount. Left as is, the sharp edges of the rad would cut through the rubber mount.

Sheet metal screws can then be used to hold the fan mounting bracket to the supports you just installed on the rad. I used (hardware store) foam weather stripping on the fan bracket over the rad so it wouldn't vibrate or bang against it.

The bracket I used allowed me to adjust the verticle position of the fan. The fan is scrunched between the steering rack on the bottom, and the hood mounting bracket on top. You may have to shave a bit of the upper fan shroud for hood bracket clearance.

Used a Ron Francis Wireworks (www.wire-works.com) thermostat and relay setup to control and juice the fan. Put the fan sensor right over the driver side water exit from the head to the intake, in the intake. Using a 180 thermostat, fan comes on at 200, goes off at 185. Used the air conditioning control for a dash mounted override switch for hot days and slow traffic. Using a Stant 7# pressure cap.

$15 Trak/Pep Boys coolant overflow keeps air out of the radiator, and coolant off your garage floor.

Used 1 3/4" exhaust tubing for part of the lower water crossover, along with 90 deg elbows.

5000 miles now on car, cooling system works fine (knock on wood).