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Boss JBL's 331 Comes Home
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...eshome-med.jpg
Came in from Arkansas on Tuesday and picked it up from the rod shop this morning http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...ItFits-med.jpg It Fits http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...T&DRockers.jpg http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...ntedValves.jpg http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...dclearance.jpg Motor & Tranny installed. Low ground clearance. |
very nice! Moter is based on 302 block ,rite? can you get me measurement from top of top 1"x2" frame tube to top of intake carb pad? You running full dry sump? How does it look for headers?
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WOW!
Very impressive! A very serious motor for a very serious chassis. Ought to be one incredibly fast and great-handling car when you're done.
Jeff Burgy |
mr bruce,
The motor is based on a 302 R-block with Yates type heads. The pan is only 6.25" deep and flush with bottom of frame rail. It holds almost 10 qts. The headers are still at the coaters but there are a few pics of them in the rough at my photo gallery. I can measure the motor but it would only apply to this combination: 302 std. deck / yates / Roush intake. I will get you that # next weekend. john |
John,
Incredible. How long until she's ready to fly? Tom T. |
John, I'm building the airbox for the Daytona body and I want to cover as many manifold applications as possible so customers won't have to cut the hood and airbox for their particular settup. Post them numbers when you get a chance.Thanks, JBL Bruce
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Tom T,
I think I will have a driving / flying chassis by July or August and then put the body on Aug / Sept. From that point, I'm giving myself another year to deal with body modifications, sheet metal and air management, interior and paint. I don't know. It would be cool to make the Mini-Nats 03. We'll see how far I can get. I think the body work and paint will require a ton of work. Let me know the next time you'll be at Sears Point and I'll stroll out for a visit. John |
mr bruce,
It occured to me that I have moved the motor location in my car but only slightly. The tail shaft was raised .50" or .75" because tranny was hanging below bottom rail. The motor and tranny are dead level with the chassis so the motor and trans are roughly .50" to .75" higher than a stock JBL. Also my motor is set back almost another 1" from stock. I will get all the critical dim's for you next wknd. How's that coupe body progressing? I did'nt know you were the guy in Penn. working on that project. john |
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There are a number of new items being built right now for air management. Engine bay stuff and radiator shrouding that controls airflow. Also a new front splitter with proper tunnels and undertray design for variable front downforce. I do not think that it will take you a year for body work. As you noticed the body is quite straight in the panels, but you do have to fit the doors, bonnet and decklid. This should not take too long, Unless you start doing some crazy things on the flares like you mentioned to me. I do think that you have a good idea on the side vents. You may wish to wait on final design until you get the new design inner panels. This do mange the airflow in the vents areas. Great work so far. Can't wait to see you at Willow. |
it sure looks cool John..wow!
can you tell me a little more about your oil pan. Is it a custom pan or can it be bought off the shelf? if so, what company and model number? is the pan more for drag racing or road racing? I love how high it is off the ground. Andy |
Richard,
As you know I am very interested whatever JBL stuff you guys are working on. It will be a while before body goes on so there is time to work with you on this stuff. I have to finish up the plumbing, brakes are done but not fuel, and a bunch of dust bunnies I'm chasing around. I am beginnig to think about the cooling and breather systems and the best setup for the track. I have been trying to do my homework on these subjects but have not gotten any real comprehensive info. I have a 16" fan 2950 cfm and have been looking at mounts and shroud possibilities. Also radiator frame area....panels to close off sides and force all air thru the radiator. I would like to talk with you on this. Crazy, yes. I will most likely flair the rears. The body and panels seem to be just fine except the drivers door. The contour is very different than the body. This is with the body relaxed and flat. I'm hoping it's the door and not the body. Will send you pics when I get to that department again. I will get with you on the other stuff after I get the drive trane completed. Thanks Richard, john |
Hi Andy,
This is a custom road race pan I had the Arkansas boys do me. My motor is slightly higher and have 6.25" from pan rail to bottom of chassis. I gave them the parameters and this is what they built. I have to say, when I first saw the motor I started checking out the oil pan before anything else. It's a very nice piece for a sheet metal pan. I will have it off soon as I have to carve out a little more room for the starter. My flywheel is very small diameter and the starter sits much closer to the block. Rather than send my bell housing and starter all over the country in order to have the pan made perfectly, I figured I'd do this touch up my self when I got the motor home. I'll take some pics before I take the blow torch to it. What is the distance from the bottom of your chassis to the pan rail? I am curious. Thanks, john |
I think with the 8" canton, I am probably 2" under the rail. You can sort of see it on the right side of this pciture
http://www.cobralads.com/timing/DSC00014.JPG.html I know that Robert and Jay went with a custom Armando pan and they have about an inch more clearance than I do. I may go that route in the future...perhaps Armando could even come up .5 to 1 inch more. Your system looks sweet...as high as dry sump. |
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the new stuff addresses airflow in all the areas you speak of above. The parts are pretty trick and Dave and the boys have spent a bunch of time on the bits. You will not need to do anything extra after you get these parts. The doors will line up correctly once the body is positioned correctly. It is not difficult to do, but we need to talk about the method of fitment so that things go easy for you. There are some little tricks that are not obvious that make it work quite well. Give me a ring when your schedule allows so that these issues are taken care of without a bunch of effort on your part trying to figure out how to make a bucket of parts work together. |
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mr bruce, The measurement from top of 2x3 frame rail to top of carb pad is 20.75". It looks like I'll have to use the big hood scoop. I'm going to try to fit a .5" or 1" carb spacer but may not fit. The Roush intake is very tall. Here is the header setup. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...9motor-med.jpg john |
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Here's the pan and pickup. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...oilpan-med.jpg http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...panoff-med.jpg john |
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