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Charging 16+ volts
I noticed over the last week or so my Cobra wants to charge a litte too much. At anything above 2000rpms the volt meter climbs to 16 and sits there. If I slow down, say just driving around town, the volt meter actually falls back to around 12, sometimes less.
I have a set of Ford underdrive pullies on my car, could the pulley on the alt. be the culprit? The voltage regulator is brand new, I replaced it trying to correct an unrelated (at least I think) problem. Could it be the alternator or the battery? Any thoughts? (Man I hate electrical problems!) Dave:confused: |
Dave
I would not think the problem is with the battery or your underdrive pullies.The underdrive pullies would turn the alternator slower than stock.(I believe thats right)Your alt should put out 13 volt range.If you have a NAPA are auto parts store near by thay should be able to check them without taking anything out of your car.I would think its your regulator. Hope this helps Bill |
What alternator do you have ?
I have another problem with mine : I have a "one wire alternator" as used in Hot Rods - When my car has not been driven for a few days or so the engine starts on the first key turn, but when the engine is at normal temperature -> no way to get it started! Battery V meter indicates less then 9 V. I wait 10 minutes , and no problems anymore to start! Battery is OK, Charging system when driving is also OK - I think that there is too much pressure in the engine , and the battery (giving power to the start motor) can not turn the engine over ? Correct ? |
Dave,
I'd agree with Bill that the problem is most likely with the regulator, providing that the voltage you are measuring is accurate. I would first measure the voltage with a volt meter with more accuracy than the standard dash mounted type. Readings should be from 13.6 to 14.6 volts under normal conditions. - Jim - |
voltage
Luc;
Your description is of a fairly common elect. problem. First confirm your battery is staying at 12.8 volts; ie, check battery directly at the posts with a good digital VM cold(when it always starts) Should be between 12.5 and 12.8 V, then drive until it gets hot and doesnt want to start. I'll bet you will still have 12.8 volts on the battery posts. If your voltmeter says 9 thats just a symptom of the problem. When your engine gets hot it expands and moves and is making a bad connection on either a hot power terminal(solinoid or starter terminals or ) most likely a ground). When the problem prsents itself, quickly feel all the high power connections and grounds, the culprit will likely be hot. In any case remove, clean with sandpaper or wire bush all connections, including the RUST ON THE CHASSIS GROUND CONNECTION POINTS, coat with grease and retighten. Your problem will disappear. The only other possiblity is the starter contacts are being over heated from your headers, this can be remedied with a metal plate or insulation blanket over the starter cheers gn |
Luc
I wonder if your starter is getting hot and giving you a little grief?
The 10 minute cooldown does not seem like long enough to bring it down to temp but who knows. I would think that if it was a timing issue you would have these slow starts all the time. A poor ground should also be apparent all the time. But do check that you have a good ground to engine strap. If you could see how hot your starter feels...possible that the header is transferring heat. A shield is available that bolts right on. Just a thought. Tim |
I have the Ford 60amp alt. I don't have a problem with car starting hot, or anytime for that matter, it just appears to be overcharging.
The underdrive pulley is larger than stock so the alternator is slowed down. This would probably explain the lower voltage at slower speeds. I wonder if the battery is draining enough around town that when I speed up, the alternator is trying to compensate for the low battery? Dave |
If your regulator is external to the alternator, check the ground. I had the same problem, even after replacing the regulator. When I installed a new ground it worked better.
Good luck. |
If your regulator is external to the alternator, check the ground. I had the same problem, even after replacing the regulator. When I installed a new ground it worked better.
Good luck. |
I'll check all of my grounds just for good measure.
bran3b, are you aware that our Cobras are very similar? Mine is Chrome yellow with black stripes and a 460. What color is yours? |
Dave,
Forgive me for saying the other "C" word, but it is Corvette Mellinium Yellow. I hadn't seen the yellow wheels before, I LIKE IT! If I had the wheels and chrome pipes I think that we would have a match. I would be interested to see them side by side, you always see blue or red, but two yellow Cobras. COOL.:) |
Don't woory about that, my brakes are Cadillac in the rear and Firebird in the front. Ohh and as I'm sure you know, I have a Camaro gas tank.:rolleyes:
The wheels were made by Dynamic Motorsports. The center is a fiberglass cap that covers the lugnuts. I just had the caps painted to match the body. But, I don't think they make the wheels anymore. Too bad really, they were only $800 for the set and if you ordered extra caps, you could paint them different colors. |
Change
Sorry to change the subject, Dave what model Caddi calipers are you running in the rear? The alternative I've been looking at with vented rotors/park brake are 82-87 Camaro Firebird and are quite pricey. We'll start a new post if this goes anywhere.
Cheers Nick |
It was a kit with all of the brackets and necessary mounting hardware. I got it from ECI. Below are the links.
Here's the link for the fronts: http://ecihotrodbrakes.com/mustang_p...nversions.html Here's the link for the rears: http://ecihotrodbrakes.com/rear_disc...nversions.html |
Thanks heaps, I should have thought of them I have their Vette/MII front brake kit. It's nice hardware.
Cheers Nick |
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