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flipper35 05-29-2002 12:42 PM
Headlight woes
 
I was working on my high/low beams and can't figure something out. On high everything looks good but on low the lights get very dim and the high beam indicator is dim but on. If I check the wiring, what appears to be the high beam stays hot on high or low beam. If I disconnect what appears to be the low beam and I switch from high to low, the lights don't change whereas I thought they would go out (the high beam indicator does go out). Do I have a funky relay or did I screw up in the wiring.

This wasn't an issue until I used the extra bright halogens as I never switched from high to low beams before.

B L & sons 05-29-2002 01:43 PM
Brent
Just something you can check out. If the new lights are sharing the ground you may be powering backward,with a fiberglass car every thing has its own ground. take both bulbs out and locate a known ground,best to go (-) side of battery.
With a volt meter check for power on what you beleave to be the low beam wire,then do the same with the high beam you should have ~13 volts +-then do same with the wire that you beleave to be the ground should be 0.
Let me know what you get and we will go from there.

Bill

Bob Putnam 05-29-2002 01:56 PM
Here's the socket wiring:
http://www.erareplicas.com/gtman/wiring/hdltwire.gif

flipper35 05-29-2002 02:10 PM
Thanks guy's, I will check it out tonight.

flipper35 05-30-2002 12:33 PM
Problem solved. Thanks guys, the wiring couldn't have been any more screwed up. This place is great.

kountzecobra 06-06-2002 04:25 PM
I have the same exact problem with my headlights. What is the cause? I am about stumped, because I am sure it is something simple I am overlooking. Later, David.

flipper35 06-06-2002 04:40 PM
I see the picture is gone. If you look at the lights with the center connector on top like ,-, the left is ground, top is low beam and right is high beam. On mine the lows are on all the time and the highs go on or off and that's why the high beam indicator didn't go completely off. Let me know if this didn't help. My relay was messed up too. This wasn't the only issue I had with Dr. K's wiring by the way.

kountzecobra 06-06-2002 07:23 PM
Dumb mistake- I had ground wires and hi-beam wires crossed. I was looking at headlight plug from headlight side, not from wire side as diagram. Later, David.

750hp 06-07-2002 03:35 AM
Hey Brent - glad you sorted it out. What's a 3/8th mile modified? Is that a speedway class? What engine capacity? Many class restrictions?

flipper35 06-07-2002 10:29 AM
It's built specifically for a short paved oval for racing stock cars. I got most of the parts from a close cousin that's sponsored by Mopar. The cars are similar to the NASCAR soutwest series. 360cid is the limit on displacement and a 500cfm 2bbl which, of course, I don't have to abide by. Also they have to run 12:1 cr or less but mine is a couple points lower for the street. They are tuned specifically for a very broad torque range for the shorter tracks. Since my cousin was givin most of the parts, he sold them to me really cheap. How about a set of factory race heads with the machine work done and an intake manifold modified at the factory for $200.00 (less valves and springs)?

750hp 06-08-2002 03:33 AM
Brent - sounds like a good way to get a proven combination for the right price! Good luck to you!


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