Clutch linkage help
 

Ok I need some help from the experts.:D I have a Tremec from a 96 mustang Cobra R, Ford motorsport bellhousing and a hays diaphram 10.5 clutch with a pusher slave cyl. The clutch will release when I push in the pedal but when i try to put it in reverse it grinds and I have to shut off the car to get in reverse?:confused: :confused: :confused: Does anyone have any ideas? All parts are new, The shifter is a Pro 5.0.

Thanks, Ray Hedden:D :D

Ray,

You likely have either air in the line not allowing the cluth to fully engage or you have an adjustment problem with the rod not being quite long enough to allow the throw out bearing to fully depress the clutch forks.. If the system has not been blead try that.. Otherwise unscrew the rod between the slave cylinder and the fork about 1/4 inch at a time until you can easily get it in and out of reverse..

Conversely, this type of thing will happen if you have a leak in either the clutch master cylinder or the slave cylinder.. It is often the first sign you are going to have a rebuild for your weekend cobra pleasure.. If you suspect it is leaking fix it sooner rather than later.. Brake fluid has a way of eating not only expensive paint but also gel coat...

Regards,

Option 2. With a 351, convert it to a cable clutch instead of hydraulic. Used a BBK cable & quadrant, and BBK firewall adjuster. Got 6000 miles on it now. No problems. e-mail if interested. Have shots.

Jack21:
I have the same setup, 351W and T5 in my A & C. It seems I'm always adjusting the nut on the the threaded rod thru the clutch fork.
Is there a correct method to adjust the amount you thread the nut. How does one know if the adjustmant is correct? I've gotten alot of advice, but Still have problems at times getting into 1st or reverse.
Once the adjustment is made is it recommended to put a jam nut behind the adjusting nut? Because once I think it is right I'll drive 100 miles or so and it isn't right any more.
HELP!!!!
Jim

Jim,

Initial setup; 1/8" - 3/16" freeplay at the fork, then tighten jamb nut. It should stay adjusted after that. If it doesn't there flexing somewhere. My guess is it's where the cable mounts to the firewall. If that's not solid, your firewall is flexing in as you depress the clutch instead of disengaging the clutch. Every time you push the clutch pedal down, you're putting about a 200# load on the firewall cable mount.

Second place I'd look is if your pedal set is twisting when you depress the clutch.

Anyway, here's how I set mine up. Got the BBK clutch cable & quadrant kit for late Mustang, and BBK firewall adjuster. The quadrant I grafted onto the upper clutch pedal. Had to cut about 1/3 of it off, but there's still plenty to work with. Looking at where the cable comes through the firewall, I made an aluminum puck about 3" dia, with a flat rubber gasket between the puck and firewall. The puck distributes the load over a wider area so the firewall won't flex, and the gasket cushons any high spots between the puck and the fiberglass so it won't crack. The puck bolts to the firewall, and the BBK firewall adapter fits inside the puck. No flexing. All clutch pedal movement is transferred to clutch fork. Haven't touched it since installation. When clutch needs adjustment, turn the firewall adjuster out. No crawling under the car. e-mail is jwalsh21@ix.netcom.com if you want shots of this.

Sounds like your pilot bearing is hanging up a wee bit. Reguardless, before putting a tremec into reverse (or first), pull it into 2nd (or 3rd) first; to stop the input shaft from spinning.

On flat ground, brakes off, in first gear, with the clutch in, engine running: does the car want to creep forward? If so, the clutch is not fully disengaging. I'd bet a sticky pilot bearing though.