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Hydraulic clutch installation
I am about ready to start the hydraulic clutch installation on the Cobra using the clutch arm and slave cylinder recommended by Unique. But, before I begin I'd sort of like to know what the setup is supposed to look like when I'm finished. Does anyone here have a photo of their clutch setup? I'd sure appreciate a post!
Thanks, h dog |
Install Notes
I will try and get you one tonight if my camera is ok (my wife dropped it at the Omaha event last week).
Basically if you would look at your brake pedal and how it is set up with the push rod going into the master cylinder, that in principal is how your hydraulic clutch will be set up at the firewall. From there you have choices but I believe that you should run the AN3 or AN4 stainless flex line from your master cylinder to your lower hydraulic throw out bearing hose. Your hyd t/o bearing probably has two braided 12" lines that extend out of your bellhousing. These lines need to be kept away from all moving parts (I used nylon ties to pull those lines back away from my clutch and pressure plate. The line I use to bleed my t/o bearing (top line going to throw out bearing) I extended 24" and mounted beside my clutch fluid reservior (so I could bleed it from the top of the car). I have had more than my share of problems with this set up so here is some advise. 1. Be sure the hole you drill in you firewall is not too big. If it is your firewall mount could be weak and cause misalignment between your master cylinder and clutch push rod from your foot pedal. Bad things can happen! 2. Be sure and bench bleed your master cylinder. 3. It mayl take a long time to bleed out all the air in your clutch. You may have to lift your clutch pedal after you open your bleeder valve until most of the air is out of your system. 4. Be sure the hole for your clutch rod clevice is properly aligned with the hole in your fire wall. If not you could bend your clutch rod that actuates your master cylinder piston. 5. Use dot 3 brake fluid-not synthetic. I have made several post on this subject so do a search on "hydraulic Clutch" it could save you a lot of headaches. Good luck. |
Clois,
Thanks, but mine uses a regular pivot arm in the bellhousing and a standard throwout bearing. Basically, I'm not sure where the slave cylinder has to mount, so I'd like to see a picture of that. I guess a hydraulic throwout bearing would just be too easy.:( thanks. h dog |
1 Attachment(s)
Here it is. The bell will need a little modifying. Grind a path for the boot to clear the bell.
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clutch setup
1 Attachment(s)
Here is picture of my setup.
Scott... |
TerryK,
Thanks. Is the pushrod part of the slave cylinder? The slave cylinder they gave me didn't have a pushrod and that kind of had me worried and was one of the reasons I made this post. thanks, h dog |
1 Attachment(s)
The cylinder with the push rod and the extention came from Unique. Give them a call for those parts.
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For a slave cycinder pushrod, I like to use a piece of threaded rod, two nuts and a pivot ball from an old rocker arm to get the length just right. Then I take a 7/16" bolt and round the head, cut to length and voila, a perfect length pushrod that can't come unadjusted.
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Hydraulic Throw Out bearing fits
Ok, this may be redundant. My 514/TKO/McLeod set up is equipped with a hydraulic throw out bearing.
Something is leaking. External fluid evident. I assume its just a loose connection into or out of the Throwout bearing. My immpression is I need to pull the tranny. That sucks hard. Pending dissassembly, I am considering switching to different set up. Any recommendations on BB applications? Also, even filling the clutch fluid reservoir is a HUGE pain in the ars. It is buried so deep in the fender it is almost immpossible to pop the springs on it. Any thoughts on a lower maintenance approach or solution to my leak???? These cars should be so simple! |
uh-oh
Well Johnny, I just noticed this morning that I have leak into my bellhousing with a Mcloud hyd. throwout also. Since there is no trace of red, I guess mine is the bearing or a rear main seal- most likely the bearing. Yes we have to pull the tranny. The leak is either at the fitting or internally. Does anyone know if the clutch can still operate normally if the piston has hyper extended? Nothing is simple
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