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Sure, there's a restriction to flow when you add a cooler and all the necessary fittings. This isn't a problem unless the clearances in the motor are so loose that it flings oil off the crank faster than the pump can move it. Expect a 15 psi drop. I would rather have 35 psi of proper temp oil than 55 psi of too hot oil.
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Just wondering. When changing the oil in a car with an oil cooler, how to you make sure that the coil drains completely? Or does all of the oil return to the pan when the engine is shut down? It may not be a problem, I just would not want to leave all of the dirty oil in the cooler after you drain the pan.
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The oil stays in the cooler, if it drained out then there would be a dry start every time you fired up the motor. You could drain the cooler and then prelube the motor before fire-up every time but who would. So you only change 5 out of the 6 quarts of oil in there, big deal, close enough. You can never get all the dirty oil out anyway, it still coats all the internals.
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I have a remote dual filter setup, accusump pre oiler and oil cooler. I get 75psi on startup and warmed up and running I get about 60psi. At warm idle I get about 45 - 50 psi.
Roscoe |
I drilled and welded a threaded boss in the bottom of the oil cooler to accept an allen plug, also drilled a 3/4 inch hole in the body directly under the cooler, this drains most all the oil. a little extra effort but, I wanted it.
A hydraulic guru told me, for every 90 degree fitting you install, it's like adding 3 feet of hose. Not sure if this applies to automobile oil lines?. |
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