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Eric hit it right on. The 2 piece seals don't seal on aftermarket cranks. He says he CUTS the rear of the block fo the 1 piece jobbers himself. Curious about the tool which will put the hash marks on the crank for use with the old style seals.
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Eric - Thanks for the offer to use the tool, much appreciated...The engine builder said he used a Scat crank so I can't imagine anything wrong with the crank itself...At this point he wants to pull the motor and give it a good once over...
I am however, very interested in that tool you've made...Can you give us some more info about it ? Thanks again. |
RE: Cutting the block to accomodate a 1 piece seal - Dean at House of Cobras who maintains my car, also does the same thing when he builds his 418 stroker...He knows his stuff. He called this the first time he saw a drop of oil coming off the bellhousing..."Your main seal is leaking - it's a 2 piece..."
And here we are. Damm. |
One-piece rear seal
Seems like an easy machining operation for any 302/351 block! I would guess any machine shop with a horizontal boring mill could knock it out in short order!
With a little "creativity", I would imagine it could be done on a Bridgeport type vertical mill.... (Wonder if the Pantera guys do this?) |
argo1 The tool I made is fabricated from a rear main cap with a single wheel from a lathe knuraling fixtue installed. It works great. You just bolt this cap on the block,with the crank installed, and then turn the crank over by hand. We used it on our Scat cranks before going to the one pc. type. As far machining for the full round seal, we alinghone the block first. This sets the location to properly machine the new seal register. Then we simply turn the block on end and machine it in our Rotler cylinder boring machine. This has been working fine on our small blocks,now I wish we could find a simple fix for the big block! Hope this information will help.
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agro1, Keith, et al,
As noted, crankcase pressure seems to be problematic for these seals. After I had my problem, I had Craig at Top of the Hill build me a breather unit that many of the guys in the Bay Area are running. Essentially, -12AN bungs are welded into the valve covers (both) and are plumbed via -12 hose to an aluminum breather tank mounted on the firewall. The tank has a drain, and can either be drained back into the motor, or a scavenger of sorts. At the top of the tank is a breather element, and a larger diameter cap that fits down over the element. It ventilates well and keeps the oil from blowing out of the breather all over your engine. Looks cool too. Call Craig at Top Of The Hill - 925-460-5297 and he can set you up. Brad |
I don't think it's a crankcase pressure problem. Aftermarket crank + 2 piece rear main seal = territory marking. Cut the block for a 1-piece and no more leaking from there. If you have oil blowing out your breathers and making a mess all over the valve covers, you have a ring seal problem.
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FIXIT - Well said...And I have been marking allot of territory. Almost needed a friggin umbrella under my car when it was on the lift....But the underside of my car sure as hell ain't gonna rust!!!
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Hey, if it wasn't for leaky engines, there wouldn't be very many classic cars left. My chevelle is rust free because of the continually reapplied 20w-50 rustproofing to the underside for the last 35 years.
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i use a stainless cookie sheet under the engine for those troublesome leaks...it has been said " if they don't leak ya better check the crankcase cuz there is no oil in it ". b
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