A&C Owners Help?
 

Just mocked up my body for the first time. 3 out of 4 wheel openings look good . Drivers side rear is way tighter than passenger side,1 inch plus!! My body is two years old. I know they made new molds. Is this why? Have any of you guys experienced this. Also I'm concerned About ground clearance on my blowproof. How high off the ground are your frame rails sitting? Maybe I have it mocked up to low and I'm worried for nothing. Is this a good start for an A&C forum? Thanks in advance, GMAN

Good questions! I been wondering the same! The lowest part on my Cobra is 3 and 3/4" high. The oil pan bolt (plug) is the same as the lowest part of my frame rails. I WAS lower than this! I recently raised the car a "little" by installing new front springs (boy, coil overs would be nice)! It is TO low for everyday "normal" drivng (speed bumps, etc.) but I race it and want it as low as I can get it, and STILL be able to drive to the track.

I believe my rear axle is "off set" to one side when measured from the body to the top of the tire. I HATE that! You can't "see" it (unless I point it out), but you can measure it! I THINK they aligned the exact center of the axle with the frame rails. The rear axle SHOULD be slightly OFF CENTER with the drive shaft running at a SLIGHT angle because the pinion gear is NOT the very center of the axle! Think about it, the pinion is "off" to one side on a solid rear axle (9" Ford).

I need to jack up the car and take extensive measurments to get to the bottom of WHAT is really mis-aligned here! A quick measurment indicates a perfect frame, but I DIDN'T use a plumb bob to mark EXACT centers!

Mark all four corners with a plumb bob (car jacked up), then measure front right to left rear diagnolly. EACH diagonal measurment should be the same! If not, bent frame! Your four "reference" points for EACH wheel need to be painfully accurate (taken from the FRAME, not some "moving" suspension part)! Only then can you blame the body shell.

PLEASE let me know what you found out.

Ernie

Although there are several theories, I'm told that the original A&C moulds were splashed off an original Cobra. This would account for the fender to fender differences. Do not try to align the body by looking in the fender walls, you will go nuts.

The body should be pushed all the way up until the rear part hits the axle hump on the chassis. Then do the left/right by looking underneath and the bodies relationship with the chassis. Also, once aligned that way just step back and take a look.

Also, you haven't set your ride height yet so your body may be a bit low and it looks tight.

You will also find that when you mount your sidepipes the drivers side tends to drift in toward the rear fender so your pipe, if straight, looks like it's coming away from the body. You will have to bring it in about an inch so it follows the line of the body.

As far as ground clearance, my Lakewood housing is about 4.5 inches off the ground and is the lowest point on the car. Some have just cut off an inch but I've left mine intact.

Check out my A&C build site at http://www.priveye.com/cobra.htm

Roscoe

I would suggest setting the body where it looks as good as it can, and leave it at that. If you have strut rods, the fronts may change a bit. I kept this in mind and set my rears first. SECRET: I think my right front is a bit ahead of the rest. Suggestion #2: set your assembly ride height high. It's WAY easier to lower than to raise once the car is completed-it's alot heavier! My coil-overs are set about 3/4 high, and I have about 3" or more clearance. I set mine at the best-looking ride height and scuffed the fenderwells all over town on my shake-down ride. There is a point where you're the only person on the planet to notice the finer details, everyone else will be admiring the car.:JEKYLHYDE

My A&C
 

I have not got to the part of dropping my body on yet just for the fact that joe didn`t make it yet,lol.But sonny says in october,as for my progress I finally got my engine in and all is well.Thanks to roscoe he was a great help.Look in my gallery and you can check it out,more pics to follow soon.

Good pics Mike. Keep up the good work.

Roscoe

This Internet thing is amazing, ask questions get answers. I love it! Thanks guys . I'll keep you posted.
Roscoe, already started to locate body the same way you suggested, I figured that was the best starting point. The drivers side wheel opening is still making me nuts. Been to your build site many times. The other thing still bugging me is the passenger side header.(460 ) It points to far forward while the drivers side is looking good. Ifabricated my own motor mounts with some location dimensions from Joe at A&C. still not completely comfortable with th engine placement. Anyboby with an A&C 460 have some reference dimensions for me?

gman,
Have you taken measurements of the engine in relation to the chassis. Could it be off a bit causing the header to be too forward? Have you compared the headers to see if they are the same?

Sorry I don't know anyone with a 460 in an A&C.

Roscoe

Roscoe, I consider myself pretty meticulus, I think I have the motor in the chasis as straight as possible, dead center . chassis at 0 degrees level, (with digital level/protractor) motor 3 degrees slope rear. Could not get the motor located with the dimension to the header as per manual, Gave Joe a call and he gave me a number from crossmember to centerline of water pump, thats how I set the elevation. Used a number from another club member for the front to back. also the drivers side header matched the manual number for the pass side. Am Iwrong to think both header should be directly across from each other? They are 1" different.

Is that 1" difference something that is unique to a 460 or are the headers bent wrong?

Don't know much about that 460. Maybe someone else on the shop forum may be able to help.

Roscoe

Roscoe, the 1" is being measured in the middle of the 4 outlets of the pipes , which would make my body cut outs not in the same location. I dont want to cut the body like that. the pipes look bent or welded favoring the front of the car instead of being perpendicular to the motor. Maybe I should just straighten them and move on.

gman,
Sounds like a plan.

Roscoe

Put drivers side pipe on. looks perfect! Much more comfortable with engine placement now. Think A&C will replace the passenger side header? I'm sure now it is welded incorrectly.

Gman,

On the pipes an inch does seem a bit much. Remember, however, you'll have some compromises in your car.

A friend of mine works at GM and even the models they make 100,000+ annually are off up to 3/4" side to side.

It might help - Remember, you cant see both sides simultaneously!

Good luck with your build. You'll love the results.

-wadesdad

GMAN:
The wheel wells are different in the back. Set the body so it looks okay side to side. Make sure your headers are not to close to the inner fenders. If they are you can always cut the body in the trunk area up against the frame rails if you need to go more towards the front. It won't fit exactly correct all around. Fiberglass does funny things when it is curing.
Jim

Thanks, for the advise everybody. I think I can live with everything the way I have it set now. I set it with my buddy's tires and rims since mine won't be here till next friday, he needs them back to race this weekend. I changed tire size a little compared to his. I think I'll wait till the new tires and wheels are mounted before I call it good and open up my pipe cutouts (I cut them tight untill I was sure of the body location location).