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SPF Brake Lights Keep Shorting Out - HELP?!?!?!!
Has anyone had this problem ?? My brake lights keeps shorting out. Checked the bulbs and they are fine. Checked the fuses - nothing blown...Kind of at an impass here. Is there a wire somewhere that is bad ? Really irritating, considering the marker lights (when the headlights are on) come on fine as do the turn signals. It seems it might me from the brake pedal or something ???? Any thoughts ?? Thanks in advance.
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Is it blowing the fuse everytime (short) or do they just not turn on (open)? The switch at the brake pedal is easy enough to check, with an ohmeter. After that, I would check the ground wire to the brakelights. If the bulbs are turned too far in the sockets, this kind of thing can happen. My marker lamps and dash lights kept turning on when I hit the brakes, turned out the bulbs were rotated too far and both contacts on the bottom of the lightbulb were making contact with both terminals simultaniously. You have a voltmeter, right?
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I'll check both the brake pedal switch and the sockets at the rear...but the turn indicator uses the same light as the brakes and the turn signals work fine...
Stumped - |
Check for volts on the brake light circuit from the fusebox back. Check both sides of the fuse holder, then at each connector from there back. Make sure the brake switch is adjusted right too.
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Cool - Thanks FIXIT
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Don't use them as much.
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FIXIT - they just plain don't work - no blown fuses....
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You have the packet of papers that came with the car telling you which fuse is which right? Check for volts on both sides of the fuse terminal for the brakes (at the connector, probing the wire won't find the bad crimp). From there, check for volts at every connector in that circuit, all the way back to the bulbs. Then, check the ground wire (for continuity to ground) for the tailamps, at the bulb end of the circuit. Somewhere in the circuit between the fusebox and the tailamps, the volts can't pass. Bad connection or broken wire.
Did you check the switch at the brake pedal arm with a test light or continuity tester? That's the most likely cause You have an OPEN circuit. Somewhere there is a break in the conductance of the wire, probubly at a connector. It's a simple 12 volt DC circuit, electrical troubleshooting doesn't get any easier, (as if knowing that fact makes it easy). |
Argo,
I had a problem with my left turn indicator blowing the fuse. I traced the problem to incorrect wiring on the bulb fixture. While I was tracing down the short I found a VERY BAD!!!! connection in a Male to Female connector. Open the drivers door and and at the hinge you will see a wire bundle (six wires with elec tape) follow this up about six inches and you will see the connectors. check them for pins that are comming out of the housing. I had 3-4 bad connections that were just waiting to short out! Let me know how it turns out. By the way I just started mine today for the first time. I had a small oil leak from the oil cooler. They are sending a new one. |
Hopeful - Thanks for the tip...Sorry to hear about your probs with the new car...As they are all hand built, minor problems such as yours are common, just be glad they are as minor as they have been. Oil cooler isn't so minor though, but the SPf dealers are good about replacing stuff underwarranty so you should be fine.
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A lot of oil coolers leak from the flares where the fitting meet. An aluminum crush washer solves it as often as replacing the cooler itselt. That is, if it is leaking from the fittings.
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