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Where has everyone mounted their Proportioning valve?
I am redoing my brakes and have just installed the Wilwood 2 # residuals for the front and back CCT. Looking for the firmer pedal.
While I am at it, I thought to install a Wilwood prop valve for the back cct. Where is the best place for it? I can't see adjusting it much more after the initial adjustments are done. Accessibility, protection, support.... I may not even need it in the line, but it's going in in case I do when she hits the road later. Thanks Tim |
Tim,
I mount them within arms reach on the dashboard, while completely strapped in your seat, shoulder belts too. Somewhere off center left on the dashboard and make sure your right knee clears it in all areas of movement. If racing, there may be occasion when you need to adjust it while driving and its good to have it within reach. I have also seen some mounted on the tranny tunnel. |
Hello Tim,
Mine's on the floor just in front of the right side driver's seat track, next to the bottom of the trans tunnel. If you put yours there, be sure the seat can go all the way forward without hitting it :D In my car that is completely out of the way - even when getting in/out and stretching - and as John said you can reach it underway. Tom |
A proportioning valve is used to adjust the front - rear brake bias. Front - rear weight distribution, front - rear tire size, front - rear rotor size, front/rear brake pad area, front/rear caliper piston area, front/rear master cylinder bore (area) all affect front - rear brake bias, we install a proportioning valve to fine tune this. (Since all these variables are already sorted out for you on a normal car, you don't need a prop valve unless you dramatically change something) Once you've selected and installed all your components, and dialed in your brakes, you shouldn't need to adjust it again unless you change one or more parameters, e.g. install a larger rotor/different caliper on one end of the car.
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If you do any amount of track time put it where you can reach it just like JM says. Track conditions change and you have to be able to dial in your car for those conditions.
If you don't do any track time you probably don't need a prop. valve. RD |
On street cars, it's best to put it where no accidental adjustements will be made to it. I like near the master cylinder. You will get it tuned once, and not need to change it unless you madify some aspect of the car, such as tires, ride height, shocks, etc. The last thing you want in a panic braking situation is for it to have been bumped out of adjustement, making your braking either weak or too much to the rear. All factory cars have a prop. valve, but it is non-adjustable because they don't expect you to change anything warranting brake bias adjustement. On track cars, it should be accessable to the strapped in driver. So are you a street driver, or a serious track jockey?
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Hi everyone. After reading all your input, I have really determined my car will only see street use and no track.....we don't have tracks in my parts.
I do know that the car will need it's initial dial in. Lacking the real need for immediate access, I think it's best as posted, that I mount it near my MC. I will likely mount it back to back with my rear cct residual valve...easy with the 1/8 npt union.....then tube off to my brake switch which is further on dwon the frame rail. I can get at it fairly easy if need be. Thanks all Tim |
Let's ask the experts, what is the best procedure for "dialing in" the proportioning valve on a street car? Should you start with the knob turned fully CCW (least amount of prop. valve piston spring pressure) and then start doing panic stops do determine which end of the car starts to lock up the brakes first? I've never been able to adjust mine because it is hard to get any of my wheels to lock up under braking! I'm switching to Performance Friction Carbon Metalic Z rated pads this winter so hopefully that problem will be solved, but I will have to learn to adjust the proportioning valve. %/
Steve |
Most of my driving is around town so I put my valve next to the master cylinder figuring I would never need to adjust it once it was set. In hindsight, I wish I had put it in the cockpit and will probably move it someday.
 To adjust, I started with mine fully open (no proportioning - rear tires locked up first). Kept adjusting a couple turns at a time until the front locked up first. Then I kept fine tuning (back and forth several times) until I could get all four lock at the same time. The whole process took less than 1/2 hour and was very simple to get it dialed in. Good luck, Gene |
HEY, GUYS - -
NICE - CLEAN - INFORMATIVE THREAD. MAN - - -I LOVE THIS FORUM. Y'ALL HAVE A REALLY GREAT DAY, BLACKJACK |
Thanks Gene, thats pretty much what I thought but I wasn't sure.
Steve |
Gene
Great to see a photo of what a guys has done. Thanks Mine is down on the floor and I will have a residual in line ahead of it.......thinking of doing pretty well the same thing. I have to ask you why would you move it later on, given the arguments or needs as discussed herein Tim |
Whaler,
No real reason other than to simply to make adjustments 'available' from the cockpit. Then I could adjust them 'on the fly' should I ever need too. As far as accidental adjustments in the cockpit, it wouldn't be much of an issue with me. First off, you would have to give it quite a 'wack' to get it to move since the valve is rather stiff. Secondly, I'm the only one who drives the car. Of course this assumes it is 'out of sight/reach' from the public. I'm thinking on the floorboard and in the corner behind the seat would be a pretty safe place (?). Gene |
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