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Don't use cheap fasteners on your car...
You've heard this a million times on this board, but it happened to me now. I figured out today what happened to my clutch. Where the clutch fork attaches inside the bellhousing, the two bolts that hold it broke. The heads of the bolts were laying in the bottom of the bellhousing. Now my mechanic has to take out the driveshaft, transmission, etc. to reattach it. :mad:
The guy I bought the car from said he had some issues with the assembler, most specifically regarding fastener quality/grade. Now I understand why it is so important. My mechanic says he'll have me back on the road tomorrow, I hope so, Sunny and 70 degrees is the forecast. I also noticed that there were about 8-10 washers stacked up on these bolts. Could this have been to adjust the travel of the clutch? or was this some sort of rig? |
Um... you ARE going to check the rest of the bolts, right?
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The washers would have impact on the static position of the Clutch Fork. Would probably have moved the end outside the bellhousing further forward than normal (without the washers) if they were "under" the pivot. "Ditto" on Petek's comment regarding fasteners. Check them all! Especially those in suspension, steering and brakes.
Rick |
Most of the critical fasteners (i.e. suspension, driveshaft, transmission, etc) are either Grade 8 installed by Unique on the pallet kit, or grade 8 from someone else. It is all of the miscellaneous fasteners for accesories, brake and fuel lines, wiring, etc. that are sub-par. When I get my house and garage finished it will give me something to do at night during the week.
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Unique does supply the proper grade 8 bolts on their kits. On the ones that I build, I replace most hardware that shows with stainless steel. The exception is any suspension or driveline bolts which I leave as the standard grade 8. I know that many will argue with me, but I just don't trust stainless steel in critical areas.
Take care, Bruce |
For strength, use Grade 8. These are generally Cad plated so they won't easily rust. For corrosion resistance use stainless. The difference in cost is not that big of a deal.
Can't speak for all kits, but CR furnishes lawn mower grade hardware. It all went in the trash piece by piece as it was used to size the replacement hardware, then tossed. |
Jhaynie,
When I assemble something I spare no expense... I always use the most expensive duct tape... By the way, who assembled the Unique? |
jeez ,i dont like the sound of stacked washers being used to compensate for clutch adjustment!! is it cable operated or hydralic slave? ,you may need a longer actuator-rod( between fork and slave cylinder) or relocate slave. 5 washers under a bolt securing somthing as labor intensive as your clutch fork will allow that bolt to continuously flex, even a grade 8 will fatigue eventually ,this could be a good time to get it right good luck with her Karl
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The car was assembled by Glastech in Alabama. Alan Weaver told me he no longer recommend them, I wonder why.
The slave cylinder is hydraulic, and we did adjust out the push rod. The clutch feels great now. In and out with even pressure on the pedal. It used to push in the first 4 inches and then you had to really push hard to send it all the way. ( all of that sounds wierdly sexual, creepy.) I don't know about the washers. The mechanic put them back in and didn't seem uncomfortable about it. I'll know to keep an eye on it. |
When your mechanic has the tranny out of the car, it might be wise to check the grade of the clutch pressure plate bolts, too, just in case they went the cheap route with them.
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