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McCleod T/O feel??
Hello I have been bleeding brakes all week now and I figured while I was on a roll, I may as well jump into the McCleod T/O while I am at it. The brakes are done BTW
So i bled the MC at the bleed screw until no more air I have pumped and bled the bleed nipple on the line of the McCleod T/O slave too. I hit it about 5 times with just fluid coming. The clutch pedal is supposed to follow thru to the bottom. It just feels so light and effortless. Only really being firmer at the bottom half. Basically I am trying to get a feel for what I should be feeling with this and the friction point engagement. I have the centreforce dual friction clutch too. The car is not drivable yet and is still up on stands Thanks for the help guys. Tim |
No Bites?
Come on, I can't be the only guy here with a hydraulic throw out??
bringing it back to the top for a while Tim |
Tim, I have the Webber/McCleod internal
T/O , you mentioned 'slave', is yours external?. Mine is a piece of cake to bleed with the 'speed bleeders', are you visually checking while pumping, to see if the air bubbles have completely cleared up?. |
Whaler,
I don't understand. You say you bled the hydraulic throw out bearing and then talk of bleeding the slave. Doesn't make sense. You either have one or the other. Assuming you have the proper spacing of the throw out bearing and all that, you should have no other adjustments. I have a Tilton hydraulic bearing on an 11" Centerforce clutch. Pedal is very light. Roscoe |
Proper adjustment of a hydraulic TO is essential. .100-.125" air gap to the diaphram when TO is completely compressed. Also, if your clutch master is not sized correctly, you will either not fully disengage the clutch (too small a bore), or you will need to make a pedal stop (too large a bore) so you don't keep pushing the diaphram after it runs out of travel. Keep the O-rings that came in the box, you will need to rebuild the TO in a year or so. At stoplights, put tranny in neutral and let clutch out, that will make it live longer.
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Fixit has a point, they ask you to take careful measurements before ordering!.
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Hi everyone. a quick clarification
I have the McCleod Hydraulic throw out. I guess I am wronfg in terming the throw-out a slave ( which actually it is) I have an MC on the floor that has a pedal...correct and its pped into the McCleod T/O which is internal to the scattersheild. My builder installed my motor and tranny and was very careful with the setup, he has done a few in the past Sorry for the terminology I used Thanks for the replies I am at work and will get to this when I get home. Good tips Mr. Fixit...****ty if these things only last a year??? Tim |
They give you the first set of o-rings in the box for a reason, many last longer than a year. I stopped installing them on customer cars cause it's too labor intensive to have to remove tranny's out of a fleet of cars to replace one dollar's worth of o-rings. I think alot of them might have rode the cluch pedal, or just held it to the floor at long stoplights, that will wear out the o-rings prematurely. Adjusting the distance is a snap, you just spin it deeper onto the threaded collar.
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I installed the McLeod Hydraulic TO in my Kirkham and love the thing.
Hope Mr. Fixit is wrong about a years life, though...oye! Bud:JEKYLHYDE :JEKYLHYDE :JEKYLHYDE |
Tim,
I have one in my car. It has never given me a problem in 2 1/2 yrs of service. That being said, I agree with fixit, Way to much work if it fails. Also, the thought of brake fluid spraying all over my clutch WHEN it fails doesn't thrill me. If it pukes it's guts when I'm in the middle of nowhere I'm screwed. I plan on installing a fork and external slave which can be visually monitered for leakage, and be replaced in an hour or so in a parking lot. Steven PS, to answer your question, my clutch pedal requires noticably more effort on the first pump of the day. After that, the effort is easy. Why is this? I have no idea. Maybe someone reading this could clue me in.:confused: |
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