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Transmission removal question
I'm trying to remove the transmission from a car I didn't build by doing what seems right. It has a Richmond 5 speed mounted to a Lakewood scattershield to a Centerforce clutch and a 351 W engine. It has a hydraulic TOB, perhaps a Tilton model 600.
I got as far as sliding the transmission back and it moved aft only about an inch. I expected the transmission shaft to slide out of the clutch assembly, but it seems to be caught up on something. A closer inspection makes it appear that the TOB, which is plumbed to a hydraulic line through an opening in the scattershield, is bolted to the transmission. If that is the case, then it appears I will have to remove the transmissioin and scattershield as a unit, rather than remove the transmission alone. Does anyone out there have experience with a hydraulic TOB such as I described? Is it common in such a case to have to remove the scattershield with the transmission? Any help would be greatly appreciated. |
Tommy,
My car has an external clutch slave cylinder and fork setup. I usually remove the ring of bolts around the outside of the scattershield and remove the rear section with the transmission. If I remove just the transmission, it's very hard (impossible) to get the throwout bearing located on the transmission's input sleeve (and engaged with the fork) to reinstall everything. Paul |
Tommy:
I have a 427 SO mated up to a toploader and installed a McLeod Hydraulic T/O Bearing assembly. This bearing replaces the mainshaft's collar, and yes, it is bolted to the transmission. I cannot understand why you cannot extract your transmission from your bellhousing as the diameter of the T/O collar has to be small enough to pass thru the hole in the bell. I know several folks who have installed their trans and bell as a unit, but I would not recommend it as it does not allow you to check - and if needed - adjust the fit for mainshaft concentricity. Such adjustment is most always needed for a Lakewood. Take your time and work the trans out of the cavity, making sure that the master cylinder and bleed lines are not hanging up When you do finally get to the T/O its a good idea to check all seals and o-rings for deterioration, and replace if needed. Bud :JEKYLHYDE :JEKYLHYDE :JEKYLHYDE |
Tommy,
Don't know if you're trying to mussle this out without a trans jack or what, but once the trans is unbolted from the bell housing, it gets pretty mean to juggle it around. A tip that may give you some help....... take one of the tranny bolts down to your local home center and pick up four LONG bolts that match up thread wise. We're going to make some long "studs" to hang the tranny on while you slide it out. At home, cut off the heads and install them one by one into the bell housing. You can now slide the tranny back, and depending on how long the bolts are, slip it out from the pilot bearing, clutch disk, and TOB before the whole weight of the tranny becomes obvious :D Also a great help putting it all back together too...... especially if your working alone. Good luck |
Thanks for the comments.
Budman - The TOB appears small enough to fit through the opening in the scattershield, but the plumbing to the hydraulic line won't go. There is no apparent way to reach inside the scattershield and disconnect the hydraulic line from the TOB. Cobra20646 - I am using a transmission jack and long bolts without heads. But thanks just the same. |
If the throwout bearing is a McCleod, then the hoses attach to the bearing using banjo fittings. They need to be swiveled around to the front (parallel to the input shaft) and removed with the transmission. You do have the pressure hose detached at the master cylinder don't you? You might also check for any hose (Adel type) clamp that may have been used inside the bellhousing to keep the hoses out of the rotating assembly.
Steve |
I'm with the other guys here as my previous Cob had a McCloed unit. After swivelling the banjos it should slip out very easily UNLESS the hyrdaulic lines are getting caught up somewhere. Good luck!
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