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Aluminum oil pan drain threads
Does anybody know of an insert or such that I can use in an aluminum oil pan to repair the threads?
The thread is a 1/2-20, and a helicoil set is about $50. Any ideas? BigMike |
BigMike
Unfortunate situation, hang in there. If the pan is off or can be removed it is easier and you have more options such as welding and rethreading for OEM size but I would avoid using a helicoil due to potential leakage. It will be easier to verify that it is clean when you are through also. I would suggest drilling/machining/resizing to use either a 9/16" or 5/8" drainplug. SAE (fine) threads are from an engineering standpoint best reserved for use in steel not aluminum. If you want to do the repair with the pan on the car it can be done. Determine what size plug you will use if you are not using the Helicoil. With a SHARP drill bit of the correct size slowly drilll the hole making an attempt to collect all of the shavings. Then heavily coat the SHARP tap with grease and recut the threads cleaning it often and keeping grease on it to collect the chips. Be sure it is straight so the sealing washer will seat flat under the head of the plug. Flush with a couple of quarts of oil from the top to remove any chips before you screw the plug back in place. Good luck Rick |
A temporary fix is to use a rubber expanding plug. Essemtially as the plug is tigthened the backing nut compresses the rubber to seal the hole. Most autopart stores carry them. I was told that these can be used for a couple of oil changes. At $3-4 each replacing at each change until you drop the pan and repair is junk change.
Jeff |
BigMike,
Another possible solution to your pan problem is once you get the threads fixed use the quick drain system and you never have to remove the plug again, hence no chance of stripping the threads again. Roscoe has a picture of his I think if you can get him to post it. He has posted it before but it was some time ago and I can't find it. I don't have a picture of my drain but all you do is take the cap off, put the little drain hose on and as it screws onto the brass end, like a waterhose onto a faucet, it opens the valve and lets the old oil out. Also much cleaner than messing with the drain plug and dropping it into the pan or having the hot oil on your hands. Ron **) :LOL: %/ |
If you have any information on the quick drain system I would be interested.
I have canton pan and the plug is on the side. It would be a lot easier to direct the oil flow into a bucket, downward, with the car on the lift. My plug in my last pan got stripped. Thanks! Jeff |
Here is is and worth every penny. Not only do you never unthread it, you don't get even one drop of oil on yourself.
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/images/fcm3126.jpg Quick Drain Oil Pan Couplings The Quick, Clean, High Tech Way To Change Oil Easy to connect - No drain plug to remove. Eliminates the potential of oil spillage because it drains directly into the waste-oil container. http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/aero4.htm also try http://www.jegs.com Roscoe |
Hey, Thanks, Guys.
I will repair and go to the quick-drain. Best regards, BigMike |
Oil change without oil getting all over your hands? That's just not normal!
Oh, and normal car parts stores sell those quick drain setups. (I think it's $13 or so, and that's with the male/female/tube) -steve in nj- |
A good parts store will carry oversized dran plugs just for this situation. They are designed to cut new threads the first time they are installed. I think they even carry a double oversize for those guys that don't learn the first time.
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$50 for a helicoil??? yikes.. One drill, one tap and one coil?
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