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Valve guide seal replacement??
I bought my car after 5 years of sitting with very little run time in years 1 and 2 and none in 3, 4 or 5. The bottom end still has fewer than 2500 miles since a rebuild due to a thrown rod.. the heads have 15,000 miles on them and were put on when the original 427 was removed and a 428 was put in in 1991..
The 428 runs fine doesn't use oil in any great amount beyond typical territory marking behavior. Compression is 165-171 across the board.. The question is I get a puff of blue smoke out of the right side if the car has been driven or warmed up and I shut it off and restart it in a short amount of tme. It doesn't smoke all the time, and it doesn't smoke when fired up if it is allowed to cool off, either several hours or over night. I think I need a set of valve guide seals.. Anyone have an opinion? I have seen a tool that allows seals to be changed by removing the rocker arms, pressurizing the cylinder with compressed air and using a spring compressor remove the spring to replace the seal.. Anyone know where to rent one or buy a less expensive one? (occasional use) Thanks in advance, |
You need a spring compressing lever. If you have a compression tester, you can use it's adapter to fill the cylinder with compressed air, but have the piston at TDC anyway.
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Why TDC? As long as the valves are closed, and they are all closed when the rocker arm shaft is removed, in the case of the FE.. That way you can do all 16 without cranking the engine.. But yea, I could use the plug end off my compression tester, but I would still need a compressor that works from the top only (not from the valve side) Here is what I am looking for.. but not from the UK and not $275 plus int. shipping
http://www.justoffbase-tools.co.uk/v...ols/VS169.html |
It is a good idea to have them at TDC because in order to change the seals you will need to remove the valve keepers. Once you remove the keepers, the only thing holding the valve up will be the compressed air in the cylinder. If you lose pressure in the cylinder for any reason and don't have the keepers in place, the valve will fall into the cylinder:eek: . But if the piston is at TDC, the valve won't be able to fall into the cylinder if you lose pressure in the cylinder. (at least that is how it worked on my small block chebbie when I replaced the valve stem seals). I think I bought an adaptor for my compression gauge and a valve spring compressor from Summit for less than $25 bucks when I did it and it worked like a champ.
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aaaaahhh.. Yea that would sort of be a a problem.. If that happened I would be asking for a 1/4" magnet.. :LOL: I will check with summit.. thanks guys..
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I got a suggestion recently from an old mechanic that has worked like a champ...get your flip-lever spring compressor from Napa for about $25-$30...go by the hardware store and buy about 4 feet of 3/16" to 1/4" cotton clothesline rope (3/16" works better, hell buy 4' of each and use the one you like). Pull all the plugs and the rocker shafts (of course), and on the cylinder you plan to work on, roll the piston about 1/3-1/2 way down the bore, thread as much of the rope as you can into the cylinder through the spark plug hole, gently roll the piston back toward TDC until it pushes the rope up against the bottom of the valves and the cylinder head, and get after it. The rope will keep the valve from dropping into the cylinder, with no need for air, and won't hurt anything. Using air makes me a little uneasy worrying about losing the pressure seal against the valve, and the compressor is noisy. If you do use air, put the transmission in top gear after the piston is at TDC with the E-brake set to keep the air pressure from pushing the piston to BDC.
On your symptoms, though, I agree it is probably guide seals, but usually guide seals do just the opposite, start off blowing a puff when cold and gradually get worse from there. |
The air hold fitting set is Napa #901, I've had the best luck with a K-D 2078 valve spring compressor.It's small with a turn knob on top to tighten spring,not the easiest to find but the best I used.
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I guess it depends on how handy you are with making a tool.
Take an old spart plug and remove the guts. grind off the top part. Tap it for the thread size of your compressor fitting. use teflon seal and assemble the two. Screw this into the spark plug hole and connect your compressor. This whole tool can be made in about 30 minutes. Hope this helps. |
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