|
Any 9" Ford Rearend Specialist?
I have to replace my Pinion shaft seal and wondering about reassmbly. I assume there is some sort of preload required for the bearings and a specific torque requirement for the pinion shaft nut? Any help would be very much appreciated.
Thanks in advance. Nesato |
You will need to remove the "Pinion Support" from the housing because the preload on the bearings will have to be reset after the seal is replaced. If you have the option choose the solid machined spacer rather than the "crush sleeve" used in OEM applications. If you have not done this before it is best referred to someone that has. It takes a certain "touch".
Rick |
Nesato what I do is mark the pinion & the nut remove the seal when it goes back to gather put a silicone under the washer & use red locktite on the nut tighten the nut to the markes on the pinion & nut make sure the Y joint goes is in the pinion yoke tangs.
Ken |
First...Thank you for your help/suggestions. I thought a little more information might help to better understand my problem.
This has been a 13 year project (long story) which has finally been completed and I am now going through the pains of the VIN inspections. I noticed after the first test drives around the neighborhood that the rearend was leaking. It leaks ONLY through the center of the unit and runs down the pinion shaft flange. Before I started the series of test drives, the unit had been dry for a long time (nearly 12 years). What I am wondering if it is necessary to replace the seal at all or maybe just re-torque it? The rearend is from a '77 Ford Granada with a V8 and 4 wheel disk brakes (very rare). On disassembly and inspection of the parts, the unit showed almost no ware. The gears didn't even show ware marks. The unit was then reassembled and all bearings and seals replaced, including the "crush" spacer. My guess is that I didn't get the new seal properly seated for what ever reason. I am hoping that this dissertation might help give a better view of what I need to do. Again, thank you in advance. Nesato |
I suspect "re-torquing" will not stop the leak. The seal is "old", and if miles don't get you, age will. Replace the seal.
Ernie |
Usually when you replace the pinion seal, you measure the rotating torque with a inch pound torque wrench before dissassembly. When reassembling, install the flange, washer and nut, retorque to the same reading you got previously and add a couple of in/pounds. This has worked every time, and is the method I teach in my auto class. This is to say that you have no other problems other than a leak.
|
John...
I did in fact take some readings of the rotating torque and it seemed a bit low to me, 15 in/lbs. Does this seem reasonable to you? Being so low was the reason I thought maybe re-torquing might be an option, but Excaliber is right, after 12 years most of which the seal was dry, I think replacement is definately in order. I would appreciate any recommendations on the torque specification as I am unable to find any factory specification. My guess would be to torque to the 15 in/lbs if that is the correct number. Nesato |
Looks like this website says 8 in-lbs w/old brgs, 5 with new.
Check it out http://www.fnc.ch/Technik/9-Inch_rebuild.htm |
Due to possible differences in one gear set to another the sage advice of John S Peterson should be considered as yet another way of doing it.
No doubt about one thing, working on a rear end is not something to take lightly. I've done it several times, with some success, I don't LIKE to do it unless I have too! The main problem I have found is: Gear noise following "working on it". Or, has some "gear noise" and it's "better" when your done, but not completely gone. The rear end will be fine, works good, still strong as hell,,,,,,,but it "whines" a little or a lot, depends. Sometimes it is really TOUGH to get it "perfect". Ernie |
Well don't I feel stupid! It finally dawned on me that the torque of the pinion nut is NOT the same as the rotational torque (FORCE) required to rotate the pinion shaft after all is tightened down (DOH!). The final torque of the nut is what ever it is (aprox. 175 Ft/Lbs) to allow the shaft to rotate at the specified ROTATIONAL torque of 5-8 In/Lbs.
Thanks all for your help and guidence. Nesato |
| All times are GMT -7. The time now is 03:05 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link: