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There has to be a better way!
than typical steel brake lines with brass fittings! I am replacing front calipers and rotors with Wilwoods, and I am tired of not being able to losen fittings without rounding the hex! I just cut all my fittings clean! Enough is enough.
Has anybody solved this hastle? Will Aeroquip type lines be an improvement? I am talking of not only from caliper to union but possibly from caliper to a T, (front only). One left and one right, to a single T fitting then using this same braided steel, (Aeroquip or similar) to proportion valve, then even (possibly) to Master Cylinder. I seem to recall that steel braided lines should not replace solid steel for main brake lines as they exibit to much flex. But there has to be a better way. What has everybody else used? |
Steve,
have you tried using a tubing wrench?, they are basically a 6 or 12 point box end wrench with a slot cut out to clear the tubing,..you end up with 5 points of grip instead of 2.....and they wont slip or round off your nuts.........so to speak:D sometimes it IS the tools and not the mechanic. KK |
Yes, I use a proper flair wrench, though not up to the quality of say, a SNAP-ON. I plan on searching for a better way, which includes a more efficient wrench.
Problem seems to be corrosion along with soft metal. |
Steve,
I used all stainless tubing and from chassis to caliper I used braided stainless. I, too, have wondered about using teflon lined braided for the whole setup. Roscoe |
Better wrenches.....
I will second the BEST wrench idea. It is worth the price that Snap-on charges for a good set of flare wrenches. I have different kinds from different manufacturers, and they (Snap-on)work the best hands down. Re-flare the lines with new fittings and use a quality tool, Scott
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Better wrenches.....
I will second the BEST wrench idea. It is worth the price that Snap-on charges for a good set of flare wrenches. I have different kinds from different manufacturers, and they (Snap-on)work the best hands down. Re-flare the lins with new fittings and use a quality tool, Scott
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I converted my...
lines to braided stainless pieces when I overhauled my system. The whole point behind having stainless steel wrapped/woven lines is to avoid the flex in the lines. I run my car fairly hard and havn't been able to tell the difference at all - plus it looks better to me and easier to install! Best of luck!
Tony Hull Cracker |
Thanks, everyone for the feedback and ideas.
Steve |
Braided Steel
Steve:
Can't address replacing the steel lines with braided steel over teflon but I have done the short line replacement. One of the best secondary advantages of the AN fittings is that they're steel rather than brass so rounding is not a problem. You may have to look around for the proper adapters to marry the AN fittings to the calipers or the existing solid steel lines but, once in, they are a lot easier to work with. DonC |
Tube and nut
Steve, check out www.godmanhiperf.com
I would use NTP to -3 AN fittings on the caliper with "braided teflon" flex lines which connect to "frame through" fittings for a clean look and then stainless steel hard lines (you only require a single flare with stainless steel) and a "tube and nut" assembly which utilizes a 37deg flare. You will require a 37deg flaring tool, a good quality tubing bender and a cut off wheel to make nice clean straight cuts on the stainless hard lines. you will be pleased with the quality and appearance of this brake system! This stuff is like high tech Lego, its really fun to play with! Enjoy :D |
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