Scattershield Alignment Procedure?
 

Maybe a few of you have done this more than a few times with aftermarket bellhousings.... ?

Question:
What recommendations (if any) do any of you members have for ensuring proper bellhousing/scattershield alignment for my LakeWood bellhousing?

I am specifically referring to using a test indicator (or some other method?) and modifying block pins or blueprinting bellhousing pin holes so that the input shaft is perfectly centered into the pilot bushing/crankshaft - within .005 or better.

Problem:
I just removed my trans/bellhousing because my Toploader will not go into 1st gear or reverse (when the motor gets warm for a while). There is a black ring around my input shaft where it goes intot the pilot bushing indicating heat, I believe. Process of elimination after leveral linkage adjustments and hydraulic alterations have led me to removing it and trying this now. On another related thread we determined this issue has been a problem for a few other members with FE/Toploaders using new Lakewood bellhousings, and even a few small block cars.

Before I put this thing back together I want to be sure I've checked everything. My current plan is to open the bellhousing pin holes a bit once I find center, and then ping the pin holes around the pins again vs. using offset alignment pins. Mr. Fixit had a few good recommendations, and I just want to see if there are any more before the trans, tunnel, and seats and everthing goes back together... any other ideas or considerations would be appreciated. I'm keeping my fingers crossed that I can find the fix for this irritating problem. Thanks.

Duane,

I'm not sure what you mean by "pinging the pin holes around the pins." You can open up the pin holes a bit, get the bellhousing perfectly centered and then weld some heavy washers onto the bellhousing in the new correct location. In essence, you're just moving the holes a bit.

I recently aligned my new Lakewood bellhousing and it was right on the money without the need for any adjustment. As I recall it was only .002" off center and Lakewood recommends no more than .004 or .005 or so. If you haven't aligned one before, I suggest you remove the magnetic base and all the other rods from your dial indicator and instead simply create a metal L bracket to mount the dial indicator. I spent an hour trying to make it all work with the magnetic base and rods and never could get the dial indicator into a position that would work. I spent 10 minutes making a metal bracket to mount it to. Just mount the metal bracket under one of the flywheel bolts and make sure the bracket is stiff enough that it won't flex at all while you're dialing it in.

Chris

It is can be a problem with all transmissions, especially if you use Lakewood housings as opposed to McLeod. McLeod is no safe bet, either, but the incidence is lower of being misaligned with that unit.

Call David Kee, as he see this everyday. He can give you some assistance. Most of the major supplier offer kits and the procedure is pretty straightforward as the previous post indicated.

That link pretty much covers it.
DO NOT DRILL OUT THE ALIGNMENT BUSHING HOLES.
keep them their factory size, get the offset dowel pins. The pins need a snug fit, otherwise when you put the bellhousing back on after installing the clutch and pres-plate (removed for runout measurement) the bellhousing will not go back to the exact same spot.

Let me add that I followed the above instructions and had to purchase the offset pins. As stated in the link, the hardest part is setting up the dial indicator. Once installed properly the rest is easy.
Roscoe

Bellhousing Waaaaay Out.
 

Well, the results are in after 3.5 hours of repeated measurements and reverification by myself and then again by an aerospace product machinist:

Lakewood FE Bellhousing, Test Indicator Results:
Side-to-Side: off center by .015
Top-to-Bottom: off center by .021

My Lakewood bellhousing is an unacceptable product. I can't believe companies get away with manufacturing this type of junk. Punching holes vs. boring holes is definitely not going to save Lakewood money when considering future lost sales. I just talked with David Kee today, and he said there was another customer with one that was even worse than mine, .050 off and it cost the guy a brand new 4-speed Toploader because of it - granaded after short term usage...

Beware, if you are reading this and just bought a new Lakewood bellhousing for your FE, verify and fix the bellhousing runout before you install the motor in your car. Don't risk it.

Thanks to everyone that replied.

Yikes! That is ugly. How did you decide to fix it?

"My Lakewood bellhousing is an unacceptable product. I can't believe companies get away with manufacturing this type of junk. Punching holes vs. boring holes is definitely not going to save Lakewood money when considering future lost sales."

Don't blame the bellhousing, it is only part of the equation. Your block has the dowel holes in it as well. If the block has ever been align-honed on the mains in the last thirty years, the crank moves up in the block. Just get the offset dowels and bring it into .005".

Why did you decide not to follow the instructions and check runout when you first installed it? They give you a paper in the box telling you how to. You or your builder took a shortcut, and it caused problems. Lakewood products are as good as anybody's, all SFI approved scattershields have punched holes.

This is why you need to check your crank to bellhousing runout, on all motors with any bellhousing.

Duane:

Sorry you are having trouble with that unit. Your problem, though, is a good reminder for people to align these things. If anyone has trouble shifting into reverse (grinding), assuming no cluctch difficulties, and/or third to fourth shifts become difficult, stop what you are doing and pull out the trans for alignment. If the fourth gear input takes out the cluster, it is "all over but the crying".

Good advice all around.....

I am, however, convinced that someday, some other manufacturer is going to improve on this product if for no other reason that the tolerances shouldn't vary as much as they do from unit to unit, and in this day and age, there probably is a better way.

Some people still use a method whereas they enlarge the bell's dowel pin holes, locate the bell, and then use washers that are then tacked and welded onto the bell. It works, but beware...it also negates the SFI certification.

Use the offset dowels, and, as my dad used to say..."Next time, when in doubt, read the directions".. :D

Bud:JEKYLHYDE :JEKYLHYDE :JEKYLHYDE

Thanks!
 

Yes, agreed, and Thanks to all!

I don't mind putting myself on display about this situation I encountered with my new bellhousing as there are several people that have complained to me having the exact same problem and just kept driving it as-is. Now they can all see what happens when you just bolt new parts together and expect them to work without blueprinting them first. I did see and use the procedure (obviously not too well the first time) and bolted it together.

Good blueprinting and truly experienced mechanics sure make a difference in building these cars and drivetrains. All you guys that stepped up with helpful, detailed advice are great! Much appreciated. I hope to get it back together next week or so.

Duane,
You are correct. It took me several hours and phone calls to make sure I had it right. I guess I was doubting myself a bit cause I never did it before. But now I have over 15k on the clutch and hydraulic bearing, trans, etc and never had a problem or sympton.

Do it right the first time,
Roscoe