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?? What gauge battery cable to use ??
Hey,
I plan on running both cables all the way from the trunk to the engine compartment. What gauge ??? #1, #0, #00, or something else ?? Thanks, Bill Cook :D |
#0 welding cable from your local weld shop. good qual and cheap.
Steve |
Wicked!
I used #1 gauge wire, but I only ran the positive up to the cutoff switch in the interior and then to the solenoid on the fire wall. I grounded the battery to the frame in the trunk. The positive wire runs along the inside of the frame rails for protection. Hope this helps. Jim |
I ran the 1/0 stuff with a heat resistant jacket.
Very nice Trularin |
I run #1 welding cable with solder ends cheap works good.
Have fun Ken |
Check out e-bay they have some cut lengths quite cheap perfect for what you're doing.
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Hello Bill,
Use #OO welding Cable, it is flexible, stranded, oil resistant and will keep the IR (Ohm's law E (voltage) = I (current) X R (resistance) loss to a minimum. The only down side is to find a buddy with a large cable crimper. I also put a shrink wrap sleeve on the wire to mark the positive and negative for identification down the road. It is cheap and available at your local auto parts store. The stiffer single strand solid stuff is difficcult to use. The welding cable has a good abrasion and oil resistant insulation on it. Tony R. |
Bill,
I used 00 welding cable also, and I have never had a "hot soak" hard start problem. But you have to use the solder-on connections and use the cable everywhere. I have seen people use the 00 cable for the pos side then buy a cheap #4 cable at the parts store for the neg side or the ground for the engine. They will have problems because the ability to carry current is only as good as the lowest rated component in the system. Keith |
Bill
The O would be enough but I always run the OO and another cheap source for it and they can crimp the ends on is a Semi Truck parts house. Roger |
You should run a minimum of a 0. You would be best to run a 00 for the heat issue under heavy current loads. Make sure that your connections are crimped well and sealed. A solder pot would work best combined with heat shrink over the actual joint. Make especially sure that you have established bare metal clean grounds and seal the ground point with a conductive grease meant for electrical connections, I would be surprised if you couldn't get a small tube of this at NAPA.
John |
I finally bought a crimper for under $30.00. After making numerous cables for cars, boats, lawnmower's etc. I got tired of bugging counter guy at NAPA and bought my own.
www.rjays.com I also don't agree with using welding cable. If it was so great the auto manufacturer's would use it, especially since its cheaper. It probably works great for these cars, but I don't think it would hold up for years like a duty rated battery cable. I used 2 gauge battery cable and don't have any starting problems. Didn't have any problems bending it either, I mean your not trying to tie bows in it or anything like that, just easy 90 degree bends here and there. |
Make sure it's zinc coated copper.
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