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Need to pump brakes...???
I need to pump up my brakes every time I use them if it's further than 5 blockes between stops. With each pump the pedel goes less distance... What's up??? Can anyone explain what's going on?
I have a Wilwood setup... Thanks anyone!!! |
Here's what I know ( which isn't that much). . .
You could have several problems. . but what you need to check for is height of your master cylinder in relation to any line in your system but mainly your brake calipers. Most Wilwood systems are what they call reverse mount or front mount systems, meaning that your master cylinders faces back towards you or away from you respectively. Some front mount systems mount eh master cylinder somewhat low. . . if you have this system, you may need a residual pressure valve to prevent having to push the petal to build up the pressure becuase you can get flow back from the caliper to the master if the caliper or line are higher than the master. %/ Now. ..if you have light braking until you heat up the pads. . . . may want to look at a different pad compound. Hope this helps. Neil |
Check for loose wheel bearings.
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also check pedal linkage adjustment. If you have adjustedout all the freeplay and resivoir port in master cylinder isn't being exposed to resupply fluid from rtesivoir.
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What's the update Chris?
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I suspect what Neil is thinking is the case. What I feel in the pedal makes logical sense for what he is describing. But I'll first check out what Michael points out (it sounds much simplier). I found the residual pressure valves on Wilwood's web site. Anyone know how and where those are mounted?
I haven't been willing to do any work on it yet because of a show this coming weekend that I've been excited to get to. It may take a snowfall here in Minneapolis before I get to making any changes... :) I've been thinking about new front disks so I may do both at the same time... Thanks Michael and Neil for the direction! This site is great help! |
i had the same problem and i contacted wilwood/strange and they told me to remove my wheels and bleed both inner and outer bleeders(top bleeders only). my master cylinder is above my calipers. this solved my problem.
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If you have drum brakes the shoes need adjustment. Some of the newer calipers have very resiliant (sp) square cut "o" rings in the caliper that retract the pistons farther than the older ones to reduce drag and improve fuel economy. Hence the need for "quick-take-up" master cylinders.
auto10x Bill |
Well, I've bleed everything with fresh fluid and the pedal feels rock solid. I'll see when I start driving it again, some month in Minnesota... :(
I'll update the thread when I have a chance later. |
This may be a little late but. .... .when you bleed a hard
mounted caliper system(pistons on both sides of the rotor), you should bleed the inner valve first and then the outer valve. My race team had heated discussions on this until we read the instructions. .. :LOL: Good luck! Neil |
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