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Plasma Cutters
I am starting to think about purchasing a small plasma cutter, I have been welding and cutting metals of all sorts for over 30 years but have never used one.
Will they cut stainless, copper, aluminum? Are they easy to use? The wife wants some decorative items for the yard and I am thinking about doing some sheet metal work under the hood of my Cobra. Any brand preferences? Scott S |
Scott, a plasma cutter will cut any material that will conduct electricity.
I have a 60 amp ESAB. Pricey, but with excellent performance. When you shop for one remember that they all have consumable parts in the torch. Check prices for the consumables for the models you're considering. The small 120V units are VERY limited in what they can do, some of them will max out at about 16GA, they can be very slow also. In my experience, none of them, no matter what size, will actually clean-cut the thickness advertised, they will just melt through the thick stuff. I recommend you decide what thickness you'll want to cut, then buy the next bigger unit. They are very easy to use. All except some of the very smallest ones will require an air compressor. (a couple of the tiny ones have an on-board compressor) Ed |
Great toy I have a Max 43 made by Hypertherm love it 220 V and use a outside air sorce what I like about it is a tiger in a small package 15" H 9.5" W 24" L and will cut 1/2(a little slow at 1/2"10" ipm) any thing that conduct electricity. The consumables tips ect are not that bad eather.It was a little spendy when I got mine 5-6 years ago about 2/3 cost of my Millermatic.
I am sure there a lot less expensively & new models now good luck and have fun. Ken |
I was looking at the Lincoln Pro-Cut 25. It runs off of 110v and easily cuts 1/4" plate. I don't think there are really any other thicker materials you would ever run into on an automotive application. I generally run into 1/8" or thinner. I know aluminum can easily be plasma cut, I am not sure about the others.
Here is the Lincoln spec page on the Pro-Cut 25: http://www.mylincolnelectric.com/Cat...heet.asp?p=451 :) |
Hobart Airforce....will cut 1/4 plate like butter, reliable as a hammer and parts are available at any welding shop.
Once you buy one, I bet you'll only use your torches for annealing from then on! |
I will let you know my opnion,,I recently bought a used hypertherm at an auction for 40 bucks,,I took a chance .I just had it checked and serviced ,I picked it up this morning for 58.00,,if it works it is a deal,,Tk
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You will need about an amp per 10 thousandth of the thickness you're cutting. If you want to cut 1/2" you'll need 50 amps. 1" needs about 100 amps.Stick with a good brand for parts serviceability reliability etc. The two best companies are Hypertherm and Thermal Dynamics in my opinion. Too much power is easy to dial down, if you need to cut something thicker you'll have the power when you need it. I have run a Thermal Dynamics machine Pak 55R that had a hand torch that will cut 5.5" thick. People don't stop to chat when you have that much power in your hands. You'll find no end to the uses for them. I've seen some good deals on new warranted Hypertherm's on e-bay.
Good luck with it. |
What kind of eye protection is needed with a Plasma Cutter?
Scott S |
I use my shade 10 welding helmet, but I assume shade 8 goggles would work? Whatever is used for oxy-acetylene cutting would work. :)
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This is a great subject. For 20 years I (like an idot) refused to have a plasma cutter in our small shop. With as many as 10 cars in house at one time, I was scared to death my guys would be splattering every windshield, burning every seat, or simply setting the shop on fire every time they used it.
Along came Cobras, brackets, frame mods, more brackets, and finally a real need for a Plasma Cutter. Tried a couple less expensive ones and finally, with some help ended up with a small Hobart. I think it was around $850.00. It is advertised that it will cut up to 1/4 and it certainly does! Beautifull, absolutely beautifull. With a little use you will be able to write your name in a 1/4" plate! DV...some times it is hard to teach an old dog ;) |
I too have a Lincoln Pro-cut 25. Don't know how I ever lived without it. Two things you do want to watch is duty cycle and amperage draw. While I run mine on 110, I'm about to change it to 220. (the procut is autosensing). It constantly blows my 20 Amp breaker when cutting heavier materials. Lincoln sends a small consumable kit with the torch which will last quite a while.
Parts are available at Airgas locally. |
Coupl'a good points
The eye protection one is a good point. You only need minimum tint with a drag tip where you're not looking directly at the arc. That makes it easier to follow your trace line too. If your using a standoff tip and looking from the side (it's better from the top)you need more shade. Also keep them away from your aerosols of layout blue, WD etc. They should be in your flameproof cabinet anyway! I have used some aftermarket cheaper consumables that don't fire or last and worse void your warranty. It's all about a little Hafnium insert. That's also why you stick with a good brand. The free hand stuff is fun as mentioned. A straight line is cake with a piece of angle iron to guide you and curves circles etc are very worth setting up a trammel tool for. If you can get it right the finish and even the accuracy will approach a laser cut. If you're going to weld the part clean (lightly grind) the edge off after cutting.
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I bought one!
I purchased a small Thermodyne.....
This is way cool:D So easy to use! I have been cutting mirrored stainless with such a clean edge and no blueing or staining, just like drawing a pencil line! I have tried it on aluminum and it works just as well, this is going to make projects so much easier!:3DSMILE: Guys if you are wondering what you want for Christmas, this may be it. Scott S |
Hey Scott - how much do I need to tell Santa to budget for???
David |
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