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Hot start problem
My new SPF has just 500 miles on it and I have a question about the starter motor. When the motor (418) is cold the starter spins the motor just fine and wakes up the beast immediately. However, when the motor has been driven the starter is reluctant to turn the motor over for a second or two, then the motor spins and catches. What is making the starter motor labor so much when warm? It sounds just like a defective battery, even though everything is new. Do I need a high torque starter motor or just live with the moaning starter for the first two seconds or so on start up when hot?
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Zoom,
This topic has been discussed several times. I don't have the same make of car as you have, but in most cases, it is the heat from the headers that causes the starter to get hot. If your headers are close to the starter, try puttting some kind of heat shielding on it. I had a high torque gear driven one built and have it shielded as well. In my case I have 11:1 compression and the stock starter wouldn't even begin to turn the motor over once it was hot. You might also do a search and read the past posts as I am sure there were some in there with the same make car you have. Ron :) |
One way to cure the problem, and I am not joking.
Two 12vdc batteries can be configured in a series connection for a 24 volt momentary start voltage to the starter. Once the ignition springs back to accessory, the relay you have to install and wire will switch the two batteries in parallel for a beefy 12 volt system. In your case, you probably won't really need to do this. I have seen it done on real high compression motors. I changed out my starter a few years ago to a high torque gear reduction starter. It weighs 50% less than the stock boat anchor I had before. |
Also check your timing. When I first got my Unique I thought that I had a starter overheating problem. I didn't, the timing was just advanced a tad bit too much.
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Had the problem on the track. Someone thought it was timing. Wrong.
The starter is heat saturating when you're stopped and the headers radiate. I had Performance Engineering make an aluminized kevlar starter wrap. They have experience with F1 "diapers", so know what they're doing. Inexpensive and works. Well made and doesn't come off. You can also get a bigger starter, more juice, etc., but this worked fine and is fairly cool. :D |
If you do not have an armature draging from heat expansion in starter (starter is OK ). One very easy way to start a high compression hot engine is to FLOOD the engine before hitting the starter button. If it is bumping against starter or firing a hole or two before starter gains enough RPM, help it out by pumping pedal 1 or 2 times. This wets the plugs a bit and allows it to spin over and gain starting RPM, this will then quickly dry the plugs and light right up.
This is the only way I could start my blown motors before all these gear reduction starters became available . Have fun. |
I have an MSD Digital 6 ignition box that has a 20 degree start retard on it. Recently I thought I was having problems with the box and I sent to MSD. They dialed the start retard off and I did not notice it. What I did notice was that when the engine was hot it was like I had a low battery. I mean like...uhhh.....uhhhh....uhhhh.....bam! I figured it out and activated the start retard and now it cranks like crazy..hot or cold. Sure, it could be the cable is not heavy enough or the starter getting hot but this is what happened to me.
Roscoe |
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