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gasket removal tips
1 Attachment(s)
I’m changing from EFI to carb on this 302. i just removed the lower intake manifold and peeled of the old gasket left on the heads, but it left lots of residue behind is there an easy and safe way clean it with out the old gasket material falling into the heads (I don’t want to have to remove them)
and if you cant tell this is my first ever getting this involved in an engine so please be patient with me. thanks Big Rob The rookie |
Stick a crumled up paper towell into each of the intake ports, roll up a rag until it is about 1" in diameter and the length of the head. Lay it under the openings to prevent pieces of the gasket from falling into the area near the pushrods & lifters, carefully scrape the remnants of the gasket off. Then carefully remove the paper towels, collecting the small gasket pieces as you pull out each towel. Then use a hose from a vacuum ti suck any remnants out of the ports.
Good luck Rick |
what should i use to scrape it with i was using a putty knife but im afraid of scratching the heads
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and also whats the best way to clean the rust off the heads
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also u can use a gasket remover aerosal can this can be purchased at any parts store. works great spray it on and let it set for a few minutes and old gasket s will come right off. good luck Neil in Maine
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Big Rob: First, do like Rick says and stuff the ports with rags or shop towels, but don't overlook any when you pull them out. And to prevent junk from landing in the lifter area, lay out shop towels to catch the junk when it falls.
Forget using a putty knife except for doing detail work. Use a dedicated gasket scraper . . . unless your heads are aluminum. Then you'll have to go another route. Rotary plastic bristle brushes used in a drill motor work great for this. Or, use a plastic gasket scraper. As for cast-iron heads, use the steel gasket scraper. Be careful if you have to sharpen it and don't make the mistake made by a lot of people. The scraper should not have a sharp edge. Rather, the edge should be chamfered, one large ground edge, then turn over the scraper and chamfer the other edge. Looking from the end of the scraper, it should look like a V with one long leg and the other very short. And don't hollow grind the edges, but put a slight radius on them . . . both sides. This will keep the scraper from digging in. If you look at a new scraper, you'll see what I mean. Once you're finished with both heads, carefully pull out the "plugs" from the ports, allowing the junk to fall into the lifer valley, then lift out the shop towels with the junk and you're done. I hope you can follow what I said. There's no easy way to remove gasket material, just easier. |
Cookies.....1/4" air tool with a 2" roloc abrasive disc (available in different grades). Cover and plug what you can, spray the dust from the gasket removal everywhere and clean and vacuum afterwards!;)
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Rick Parker's setup is very good. I use rags and fill all the holes and then use a wire brush on a die grinder. Works great and will not fork this up.
You can grab a die grinder from Northern tool or Harbor freight for about $20.00. |
People - PEOPLE!,....Please,The cavemen used scrapers and wire brushes. Try the 1/4" Diegrinder with the ROLOC wheel!,Slick as butter........Pretty soon you will be using it to shine your wifes silverware!!....It works THAT good!
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I wouldn't worry about "scratching" the heads. They are iron after all and it would be extremely difficult to put any scratches on the surface that the new gasket couldn't handle.
Scrape away,,,, unless you got one of them fancy Roloc wheel thingies. Ernie |
Roloc wheel thingy, that's it!:LOL:
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:LOL: where can i find a rolof wheel thingy :LOL: i got the grinder just need the thingy:JEKYLHYDE :LOL:
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Do as Rick suggested with the stuffing of paper towels and rags for the lifter valley. Use the wire wheel on a drill or die grinder. If you have a helper have them hold the hose on the shop vac there as you clean. When done vacuum up any loose stuff and then keep it near by when pulling the towels and rags. Works like a charm and you can have both heads done in 20 minutes start to finish.
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big_rob: You can get Rolocs at most auto-parts stores such as NAPA. They come in various grits. I suggest you get a coarser one for cast iron and go finer with aluminum.
About using an air tool such as a die grinder, be careful when using a Roloc that the exhaust air doesn't blow a lot of junk into the rocker area. That's why a bulkier drill motor might be best when working on your assembled engine. Use a vacuum as suggested, but just be careful not to suck up a rag or shop towel while you're at it. |
Got to love those "thingies." LOL
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