Shelby aluminum block...questions!
 

Starting to round up parts to prepare my engine for installation in the new car and have some questions for you guys running the Shelby aluminum block with Edelbrock water pump.

1. Will stock alternator brackets work or what are you useing?
2. What's the best starter to use and what's the price range?
3. Who's block adaptor works best for the remote oil filter.
4. Is the part #1910 March pulleys the ones to use?
5. Any ideas on alternators...I would like to find the rounded edge earlier alternator that had the autolite stamping.
6. Do the standard FE motor mounts work?
7. I've been told it is not neccessary to run the bypass hose from the water pump to the intake. Is anyone doing this and does it work OK?

I know I will have more questions later but this should get me started. And last but not least where is the best place to round all this up without breaking the bank?

Thanks,
Gary:)

Re: Shelby aluminum block...questions!
 

Gary-
I can only answer your last question- I don't think such a place exists. :CRY: :D If you find it, please let me know.:)

Gary, I can only really comment on the bypass hose as I do not have it connected and everything has been just fine.

Are you using an aluminum block? If so, why are you so concerned with the little area's of originality when the basis of your engine is incorrect? In the end of course it is whatever makes you happy!

Gary...
Shelby Enterprises now has their own forum here, specifically for questions about their engines.

Shelby Engine Forum

If you want, I can move this thread over there... or you can re-post the question...maybe Chris will see it quicker.

Something old...something new..something borrowed...something blue? Wait a minute I'm still in wedding mode as my son just got married. I don't know why. The engine kinda came with the car as a package deal.....I'm just trying to make it look well....different...or normal or...I don't know. These are just things I have seen in the past and happen to like. Just like I thought about painting the block black so you couldn't tell it was aluminum.......maybe not.

Gary

Don't get me wrong Gary I love what your building! In fact, I wish your build were mine.:rolleyes:

I do not use the bypass hose
I used the same alt. brackets and motor mounts from my iron block.
I got a high torque gear drive mini starter from Summit. Its not in the catalog but they have it.
The only problem I had was that the crank hit the block when I first ran it through before attaching the rods. I needed to remove some material from the block and it was ok. This was a common early problem and should most likely be fixed on your block.

I started to post this over on the Shelby Forum, but was looking for generic answers. I'm sure Shelby has most of the items I'm looking for but like everyone else trying to save some dollars.

Gary

Gary:

Can suggest a few things here:

1. Alternator Brackets - Originals fit, I believe
2. I actually bought a new reduction Hi Tork Starter on ebay for $127.00, and couldn't be happier with it. The fellow that advertises them always has a few for the FE's.
3. Strongly suggest the block adaptor that Kirkham sells. It's precision billet, beautifully made, and is designed to run -12AN hose, which you should be running for your entire oiling system. The common cast units are okay, but the ones I have seen are for -10AN, and cast, so you always risk porosity and warpage.
4. Call March with your application, and they will put together a set for you. There are a few variations.
5. Totally new alternators (concours correct) with the rounded housing and correct Autolite markings are available from AMK. Contact them at www.amkproducts.com. Price, about $150.00, but they are worth it. You'll pay $50-$75 for a rebuilt at Pep Boys, and well.....
6. Buy a set of mounts from Kirkham. Couple of reasons....They are reinforced, they fit, and they are relieved for the occasional freeze plug that may extend slightly above the block surface. Beautifully fabricated, too.
7. IMHO, use the bypass hose.
8. While black is authentic, I think any coating compromises heat dissipation. I would leave it natural aluminum.

On prices...well, when you are invested into one of these, what's a few more sheckels here and there?:CRY: :CRY:

Bud:JEKYLHYDE :JEKYLHYDE :JEKYLHYDE

Re: Shelby aluminum block...questions!
 

Hi Gary,

I hope I am not in violation of forum rules by responding here - if so, I can move this to the Shelby Enterprises forum.

1. We use billet aluminum or black powdercoated mild steel alternator brackets.
2. We generally use Tilton starters; they're $315.
3. We now make our own billet adapter for the remote oil filter. We recently improved it over the old design; it's pretty neat. I'll post pics when I get my hands on a digital camera around this place.
4. We currently use the alternator and water pump pulleys from the #1910 March set, but we do not use their crank pulley.
5. We use the Motorcraft-branded alternators, not the Autolite-branded units, but if people are really interested in the latter (haven't had anyone ask yet) I'd be willing to stock up on them.
6. Standard FE motor mounts do work.
7. Why do you want to delete the bypass hose?

As far as the best place to get this stuff without breaking the bank, give us a call (click the banner at the top of this page for contact info).

Thanks,
Chris Weisberg
Carroll Shelby Enterprises

Hey Chris...thanks for the input. I was just trying to see what others are using. My old 427 Side Oiler in ERA #291 use a standard starter...$32.00 from Autozone with a warranty. I know the Shelby block is a big step up but $315.00 for a starter hurts real bad. :CRY: Why do you not use the crank pulley from the March set? What are you using? Does your billet adaptor use #10AN fittings or #12AN. Some people like one over the other....I'm not sure if one is better or not. Most of my funds have gone to the car, engine and tranny. I remember from my ERA how all this little $hit adds up so I'm looking around before ordering.

Gary:3DSMILE:

Gary,

We don't use the March crank pulley because our dampers come with a pulley.

Our billet remote oil filter adapters are tapped for 1/2" NPT fittings in/out. Our cast remote oil filter mount (the one the filter screws to) also has 1/2" NPT threads so this keeps the hose plumbing simple - no step-adapters, etc.


Thanks again,

Chris

Chris....I'm sure I'll be giving you a call soon....just looking around first. Glad your here!!!!

Gary
CSX4758
Keith Craft 482 Shelby stroker

My two cents....If I were to go to the expense for an all-aluminum engine, the last thing on my mind would be to cover it all up with some paint/coating. Some things demand showing off, even if it isn't original. :)