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starter problems when hot !
this problem is driving me nuts. When ever I take a longer trip and the engine gets warm, if I stop the engine and after a while try to start, the solenoid kick in but does not turn.
I had the standard ford starter before and I had the same problem. I then wrapped the starter in a heat shielding matt and the problem happened more seldom. So I got myself a Tilton Super Starter and installed it. I have the same problem as before. What can this be? The solenoid kicks in but does not turn. The battery is ok, the starter solenoid too. I suspect that the hot flywheel expands and the gear of the starter is hitting the flywheel but not engaging because of zero play between the starter gear and the flywheel. Any past experience here from fellow club members? |
Eljaro,
No experience here with the Flywheel/Starter interference when hot, but I would doubt that is your problem. What gauge cable are you using from you battery to your solenoid and from you solenoid to your starter? What gauge of cable are you using from the frame to your battery? Do you have a heavy ground strap running from you engine block to your frame? Are all of your connections clean? I would suggest removing all of your connections and cleaning them to bare metal and then applying a dielectric sealing grease on all cable connections except on your battery, this should be available at NAPA. Also, why do you think your solenoid is good? The magnetic part may be working fine but you may have burned/corroded contacts inside that may not allow enough current flow when it gets hot. John |
your timing is off and will allow it to start when cold but not when hot. Try adjusting your timing....i think your problem will be gone.
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Just a thought here. You say your battery is OK, but what type is it, how old is it, how many cranking amps is it rated? I had similar problems with my 427/484 stroker. Changed the old battery (Exide; 650 cranking amps) to a new Optima (980 cranking amps) and the problem went away.
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Many years ago some Oldsmobiles had similar hot starting problems. It was caused by carbon/ piston design, and hot soak conditions. During hot soak conditions the pistons expanded and the carbon deposits on the side of the ring land above the top piston ring would actually rub on the cylinder wall with so much friction the engine would hardly crank. A change in piston design solved the problem.
auto10x Bill |
Timing!!!!
Had all the above problems and did all the above, check your timing. I adjusted mine and never had a problem since with hot starts. Jim |
Eljaro How are the cable ends to the battery and starter? Clean and tight? If you put on the wire does it move in the connection? You should have a .030 airgap between the starter gear and the flywheel with the drive extended. How is your starter (tilton wired up? 1 wire to the starter solenoid or 2. Take the starter out and go to aplace that can check the ampage draw on it, 120 to 140 should be max. Your starter is gear reduction so a 15-1 compression motor this will turn over. I think your connection are loose. The starter solenoid on the fire wall could be going bad. Make sure that the grounds to the motor are clean and tight, no paint under the connections. The other test I would do is wire the starter with a single cable down to the starter with a jump wire from the starter terminial to the solenoid terminial. If after you have done this and road test it and you still have the problem the starter motor could be the problem. You have good cables going to the starter,battery, grounds, and alt output I hope. Check and fix the airgap on the starter first and rewire. Give me a call if I can help Rick Lake 732-254-3536 Good luck
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battery disconnect switch
well, problem solved!
On my last outing with "no start " situation included I accidentally hit with my elbow the battery disconnect switch while pushing the car and disconnected the battery. Uppon connecting it back again the starter came on inmediately. I checked the switch which was ok, but the key had a worn plastic stem and didn't push the contacts firm enough together. Since the contacts with the bad key had between 1.5 Ohms and 8 Ohms cold , they probably got hot while driving ( I also noticed the charging gage erratic behaviour sometimes), the resistance value got up and not enough amps would reach the starter. That was it. I got a new key with a metalic stem and the resistance of the switch is now 0.4 Ohms. |
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