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start up
I'm about out of excusses.It is ready to start.I have the system full and primed with oil Shell Rotella.Cooling system has water and holding.Fuel 10 gal of 92 octane.Pumps run up and fuel logadjusted to 6 psi on one pump andabout 7 with both pumps running.Ignition ruff timed to start at about 8° bftdc. I wanted to buy a large fan at Home Depot but I got resistance and we had a heat wave.It's gone.How do I start it up and get the cam broke in?
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Start the motor and run the idle up to about 1800 to 2000 rpm.
Check the oil pressure immediately and often. If anything does not sound right STOP!! If all sounds good continue. Check for leaks Run the motor at this RPM until the motor comes up to temp and then shut it down Allow the motor to cool On the second run you can hook up a timing light and start the motor again. Set timing Keep the rpm up around 2000 again. You do not want to idle the motor down until after the motor has run for about 40 minutes or so. The initial run in is actually a fine machining process that you want plenty of oil for. Set the timing and allow the motor to come up to operating temp again. Shut it down. I now pull the valve covers and check the valve train. Check the oil Check the water level Check the float levels Retorque intake, water pump,timing cover,oil pan,headers,valve covers,carb.,starter,scatter shield,crank damper,pulleys,etc. (everything) Remove the oil filter and cut it open to check for anything unusual. Have fun!! Brent |
One other thing is do not hold the rpm at the same level. Very it to help move the oil around and keep the cam well lubed. You should never hold the idle at the same speed on a new engine.
We change the oil after 1,000 miles and check it for anything strange at that time. |
Last time I ran the car in a static position I burned the outline of the engine and exhaust into the lawn.That was just twinking with the carbs. so far I've burnt the lawn where the turn outs spew.It's dead.
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I rented a squirle cage fan ment for drying carpet. sat on a box in front of the car. The car was in the alley. Three ten minute runs.Man did the engine bay and exhaust get warm.Water and oil temps never got above 210 . Floats were high, I lowered float levels and turned fuel pressure down to 3.5 psi on a single pump .Things ran better but the front carb still dumping fuel in primaries.I changed out power valves (8.5g) in both carbs we'll see what that does.
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What do you mean it is dumping fuel in the primary? As in you look down the carb and the fuel is running in by wayof the boosters? If so and the fuel level is ok you have a pluged air bleed.
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That is what is happening, I'll check. Thanks
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You need to get a can of carb clean and spray it down the air bleeds. Chances are you will see a difference in the way the car runs shortly after. Make sure the engine is running when you do it. Short blast of cleaner will work best and keep the engine from shutting down.
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I bought a new SW fuel quantity gauge ,works much better. Now the battery appears to have gone bad.Does everyone struggle like me?
Then I tied into a small oil leak at the remote oilfilter .A nuesence,less than perfect.Found that one of the #10 A&N male fittings had a ding in the sealing surface".I'll put a conical seal on eash of them.Oh! I have only one.I'll use another style". I clean up after two hours getting it all back together.Look in the oil drip pan there is the other style conical seal that I thought was on the fitting.I went up to the computer and ordered 3 sets of four #10 conical seals from Summit Racing.Just found a boat load of #8 in a bag the day before.Went to town to the local hose and fitting source and showed them what I cosidered a conical seal " Oh we have some but they are more expensive" they were shaped like the seals from Earl's but copper .$2.50 each.And wouldn't you know it they didn't have any #10s. The Earl's from Summit are $13.95 per four plus $8.95 s&h.==$50.92 .Make the ones I ordered $4.28 each. they were shipped USPS , I'm still waiting .It's a beautifull day. |
You are struggling because you have the guts to tackle a job like this on your own. You are asking the right questions. Judging by your posts, I think you will do fine.
Steve |
Now the battery charge is disappearing over a three or four day period.I may have left the master on but ignition ,pumps fans,etc were all off. Can the alternater be a drain but still charge when engine is running?
Also I need three rubber bumpers .They were at the back of the hood.I lost one and the other two are hard now.The bumpers are round about 1/2" dia and 1/8" thick with a stem is3/16" thick and about 1/2"long . Where is a good place to shop for rubber bumpers? |
Hood Bumpers? If that is what you are needing try the closest wrecking yard and pull them from any early model car you see, Ford and Mopar seemed to use similar--I must have pulled 20-25 from various models for my car, cost me $5. I used a pair from a early 70's Connie, soaked the rubber bumpers in motor oil for a few days, let them set and air dry now they are soft and pliable. Fwiw
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Mike,
You can buy new ones at most local parts stores. Check and see if the case of the alt will hold a small metal item like a nail or such. If so you have current flowing to the alt. When the alt is on it makes a magnetic field. |
During break in, make sure you have some fans blowing air at the side pipes as you don't want to have the paint blistering on your rocker panels.
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It did turn the edges of hole where the pipes come out the sides a little brown.. ended up doing three ten minute stints.
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